Darts on the dress. Dress patterns for beginners. Types of darts on the dress

2024 Author: Sierra Becker | [email protected]. Last modified: 2024-02-26 03:47

Fashion is stepping forward day by day, the style and style of women's dresses is changing. The new models are slightly embellished, but the basic pattern remains the same.

It's hard enough nowadays to look irresistible and have something in your wardrobe that only you will have, as stores are overflowing with monotonous styles of dresses. But there is a way out of this situation - to sew the model you like on your own from the fabric you like. And this thing will be in a single copy, that is, you will definitely not meet a girl in the same dress anywhere and will not find yourself in an awkward situation.

Many believe that this is impossible, but this opinion is erroneous. It's not difficult to create your own wardrobe, and therefore save a lot of money spent on exclusive fashion items.

Patterns of dresses are known only in two versions - these are simple and complex models. For beginners, it is best to start sewing with simple things. First of all, they can be worn both everyday and for any celebration. Secondly, they will never go out of fashion. Simple dress patterns for beginners can be found in our article.

Rules for taking measurements

Starting to create a pattern, you need to remove the dimensions from the model.

1. Half neck. It is necessary to measure the base of the neck and write down the size of half of the measured measurement. That is, if you get 36 cm, then you need to write down 18 cm.
2. Semi bust. We measure along the protruding parts of the shoulder blades and the high part of the chest. This measurement is responsible for the size of your figure. You must also write down half.
3. Waist, half-girth. It is necessary to measure the narrowest place at the waist, we also write down half of the resulting size.
4. Hips, Half Girth. We measure by protruding gluteal points. It is worth considering the bulge of the abdomen. The measure is also recorded by half of the result.
5. Measure the height of the back to the waist line. We start the measurement from the seventh cervical vertebra, it is noticeable along the ledge, to the waist line. In this case, the measurement is recorded in full.
6. Back width. On the protruding points of the shoulder blades, we measure the width of the back, from one axillary zone to another. As a measure, half of the result is recorded.
7. Measure the front height to the waist line. On the protruding point of the chest, starting from the base of the neck at the shoulder, to the waist line. The measurement is recorded in full size.
8. Chest height. We put the edge of the measuring tape at the base of the neck and measure the height to the high point of the chest. Write down the measurement in full.
9. The center point of the chest. We measure horizontally between two high points of the chest. The measure is recorded by half of the result.
10. Determine the length of the shoulder. Measure from the base of the neck to the joint of the shoulder. Record the measurement in full.
11. Girth of the arm. It is necessary to measure the circumference of the arm near the armpit. Measurement is taken into account in full.
12. Girth of the wrist. The wrist joint is measured in circumference. Measure is fully used.
13. Measure the length of the sleeve to the elbow. It is measured starting from the joint on the shoulder and descending to the elbow. We write down the measure in full.
14. Sleeve length. It is necessary to measure, also starting from the joint on the shoulder and descending to the hand. Measure is fully used.
15. Determine the length of the product. Measure from the seventh cervical vertebra to the desired finished length. The measure is also used in full.
16. Increases for a loose fit:

• Chest line - 5 cm.
• Waist - 1 cm.
• Hips - 2 cm.

Building a pattern

To build a dress pattern for beginners, you need to use a large sheet of paper. If not, then you can take unnecessary leftovers from the wallpaper.

On the left, set aside the length of your dress, for the convenience of work, step back a couple of centimeters from the edge. Mark the pending length with points A (top) and H (bottom). Draw perpendicular lines to the right of points A and H.

Determine the width of the dress pattern

To do this, from point A to the right side, set aside the measurement of "half-girth of the chest" and plus an increase in the chest line of 5 cm, put point B. We put the same measurement from point H towards the right and getpoint H1, connect points B and H1 with a straight line. You should end up with a rectangle.

Measure the length of the back to the waist

It is necessary from point A to measure down the size to the waist of the length of the back, adding half a centimeter, and mark with a point T. From the resulting point to the right, draw a perpendicular to line B and H1 and mark the intersection with point T1.

Defining the line of the hips

Measure from point T downwards half of the measurement "to the waist of the back length" and mark point B. Also from the obtained point we draw a perpendicular to the right to the line B and H1, we denote the intersection point B1.

Determine the width of the back

From point A to the right, measure the "width of the back" + an increase along the back line of 1.5 centimeters and set point A1. Draw a perpendicular line of arbitrary length from it down.

Measuring armhole width

It is necessary to divide the "half chest" measurement into 4 parts + 0.5 cm, put the result to the right of point A1 and put point A2. Draw a perpendicular line of arbitrary length from point A2 down.

Determine the cut of the neck from the back

Measure "half circumference of the neck" divide into three parts and add half a centimeter, the result is postponed from point A to the right, mark point A3. Next, we divide the measurement "half circumference of the neck" into 10 parts plus 0.8 cm and the resultwe measure from point A3 upwards, we get point A4. The resulting angle at point A3 must be divided in half by a straight line and the result should be postponed on it: divide the half-girth of the neck by 10 and minus 0.3 cm, we get point A5. Next, we connect the obtained points A4, A5 and A with a smooth line.

Building the shoulder section

For high shoulders, it is necessary to postpone 1.5 cm from point A1 down, for normal - 2.5 cm, sloping - 3.5 cm, mark with a point P. Connect points A4 and P. Shoulder length plus tuck 2 cm set aside from point A4, set point P1. On the resulting segment A4P1, we set aside 4 cm from the point A4 and mark it with a point O. From the obtained point we measure 8 cm downwards and mark it with a point O1 and to the right of the point O 2 cm, we mark it with a point O2. We connect points O1 and O2. Through the point O2, we set aside from the point O1 a size equal to the length of the segment OO1 - 8 cm, mark the point O3. This is necessary so that the darts on the dress are equal. Connect point O3 and P1 with a straight line.

Determine the depth of the armhole

Divide the half-girth of the chest into 4 parts plus 7 cm, measure the result from the point P downwards, mark the point G. Draw a horizontal line through this point to the right and left sides. At the intersection with the line B and H1, mark the point G3, with the armhole line - G2, and at the intersection with the line A and H, put the point G1.

Back, armhole cut

The distance from point P to G is divided into three parts and plus 2 cm, we measure the result obtained from point G upwards, mark with a point P2. Divide the "armhole width" measure by 10 and +1.5 cm, put the result frompoint G, dividing the angle in half, mark the point P3. The segment GG2 is divided into 2 parts and marked with a point G4. Next, connect the points P1, P2, P3, G4 with a curved line.

Armhole, front half cut

Measure "half-girth of the chest" is divided into 4 parts plus 5 cm, the result is set aside from the point G2 upwards and marked with a point P4. Divide the half-girth of the chest by 10, put the result from the point P4 in the direction to the left and mark it with the point P5. Divide the G2P4 segment by 3 and measure the result from the G2 point upwards. We connect points P5 and P6 with a dotted line, divide it into two parts and in the direction to the right, observing a right angle, measure 1 cm and mark point 1. Divide the angle from point G2 in half and measure a line equal to a tenth of the measurement "armhole width" + 0.8 cm, mark with a point P7. The resulting points P5, 1, P6, P7, G4 are connected by a curved line.

Front cut

Divide in half the measurement "half-girth of the chest" +1.5 cm, mark on the pattern from point G3 upwards and mark with point B1. We measure exactly the same distance from point G2 upwards and mark point B2. The resulting points B1, B2 connect with each other. Divide the measure "half circumference of the neck" by three and +0.5 cm, measure from point B1 in the direction to the left and mark with point B3. Divide the same measurement "neck half-girth" by three and +2 cm, measure downward from point B1 and mark point B4. We connect the obtained points and divide the segment into 2 parts. We take again the measure of "semi-girthneck "+1 cm and draw a straight line along the point of division of the segment B3 and B4 from the central point B1, we get point B5. Connect the points B3, B5, B4 with a curved line, we get the neck line of the front pattern.

Center and chest height

Use the size of the center of the chest, measure it from the point G3 in the direction to the left, we get the point G6. From the obtained point we draw a line intersecting with the line B1B2. At the intersection we get point B6. From it in the downward direction we measure the height of the chest, we get the point G7.

Building tucks, types

Shoulder cut and chest tuck. Why are tucks needed on the chest of the product? The thing is that the darts on the chest on the dress are placed so that the dress has a shape in the place of a convex chest, which is why they began to be called chest darts. They can have their origin from the side cut, shoulder, from the neck or from the armhole. The place of their beginning depends on the chosen model of the dress and, of course, on the volume of the chest. Their direction is always only towards the center of the chest, this should be taken into account when constructing a pattern.

We measure from point B6 downwards 1 cm and mark point B7. We connect B3 and B7. We connect B7 and P5 with a dotted line. Having measured the segment B7B3 minus 0.3 cm, we measure the resulting result from P5 towards the right and get the point B8.

Segment B7G7 is measured from point G7 through the resulting point B8 and set to B9. Connect P5 and B9.

Side seam, defining the line

To the rightwe measure from G the third part of the measurement "width of the armhole", mark with a point G5. And draw a vertical line through it. When crossing on the armhole line, mark point P, on the waist line - point T2, hip lines - B2, and bottom - H2.

Darts on the dress on the back along the waistline

Building on. The darts located at the waist of the dress are called waist darts. They are necessary to create a dress fit in the waist area. They can be located both on the whole part of the back or front, and on separate sewn parts, in these cases they are cut-off, in addition, the tucks can be on the cut line of the armhole. Many people use darts on waist products, whether it is a skirt or trousers, they are also referred to as waist darts.

Measuring "half the waist circumference" +1 cm for freedom of fit minus the width of the dress (in our case, this is the TT1 line) - this will give us the width of the tuck on the dress.

Hip line

To measure "half of the circumference of the hips" +2 cm for freedom of fit minus the width of the dress B1B along the hip line. The result is divided into 2 parts, one of which is used on the front half, the second - on the back of the product. Measures to the right and to the left the result obtained from point B2 and mark with points B3 and B4. We mark the same distance from point T2 in two directions along a horizontal line and put points T3, T4. You should connect the point P with T4 and T3. We connect T3, B4, and B3, T4 with a dotted line. To the side of the division of points, we measure half a centimeter and connect with a curved line and points T4, B3 andsecond side B4, T3.

Waistline on the front half

To measure "the length of the waist before" add 0.5 cm and postpone the result from point B1 downwards, we get point T5. We connect points T4, T5 with a curved line. Measure the segment T5 T1 and lay it down from point B1, we get point B5. Connect point B5 and point B3 with a curved line.

Darts on the back

Divide the segment G1G in half and mark the middle of the segment with a point G8. From it downwards, lower the perpendicular and at the intersection with the hip line, put point B6, and with the waist line - T6. From point T6, it is necessary to set aside half the width of the back tuck to the right and left, marking with points T7, T8. After that, from point G8, measure down 1 cm and connect to point T7, upward from point B6 3 cm and connect to point T8.

Darts on the front half

Draw a straight vertical line from point G6 down to the line of the hips. The point on the waist line, where the vertical line crosses it, is designated T9, on the hip line - B7. Set aside half the width of the front tuck from point T9 and mark it with points T10, T11. From B7 upwards we measure 4 cm and connect this point with T11, and from G7 down 4 cm and connect the resulting point with T10.

Front bottom line

From points B4 and B3 from the line of the hips, draw perpendicular lines to the bottom line and mark them with points H4, H3. Remember: if your dress is to the bottomexpands, from the points obtained, it is necessary to set aside segments to the right and left, equal to 3 cm to 7 cm, and connect them to B4, B3. From the point H1 down we measure the length of the segment T5T1 and mark it with the point H5. It remains to connect the obtained points H5 and H3.

This is just building the base of a simple dress with which you can model your exclusive model. Darts will become assistants. How to make darts on a dress? Let's consider them in more detail.

A variety of darts on a dress

Dart is the part of the fabric that needs to be removed to emphasize the figure and smooth transition from one convex zone to another.

Darts on the dress are found in two main types. The first option is tucks with one vertex, which look like a triangle, while their shape will never change, only size and depth can be changed. The wide base of the tuck triangle is always located on a convex zone, for example, it is a female breast or a convex thigh line. The second option is tucks with two peaks. They look like two folded triangles, while they have one vertex. Two peaks are used in cases with solid parts of the back and front of the product, located on the waistline.

Relief tucks on the dress perfectly accentuate the bust. They support it from below, the best option for using them in clothes is a dense fabric. Bigger chest means more bulge must be given to the tuck. To the center of the chest, the pattern should be the most convex part. Embossed types of darts on the dressare located both vertically on the product, and can be made from the armpit. This will give your breasts fullness and tidiness.

The side tuck on the dress is called the breast or tuck along the chest line. It is located more often at the waist in front and behind the product - the dress. There are also models with tucks that start from the side seam. The darts on the dress are located at the same distance from the center of the front of the dress and two from the center of the back of the product.

How to make darts on a finished dress?

If the dress you bought does not sit well on you or you want to further emphasize your figure, then you can make auxiliary tucks on the finished product. To do this, put on your dress, look in front of the mirror where exactly you want to remove excess fabric, and mark the place of the tuck with soap on the wrong side. Observe symmetry: if you remove the excess on the right, then on the left you need to remove the same amount of fabric into the tuck.

Sweep the intended darts and try on the product. Didn't work the first time? Try a few times and then you will find the exact places of the excess fabric. If there is no desire and opportunity to redo it yourself, ask for help at a clothing repair studio.