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Many girls dream of learning how to sew, but give up on their idea. Incomprehensible calculations, taking a huge number of measurements from a figure and long building patterns are not for everyone.
But there are models of clothes, the details of which can be drawn directly on the fabric, and for assembly you will need to make a few seams on a sewing machine. For example, a dress with a batwing sleeve. This is a very interesting model, the idea of which was borrowed from the Japanese kimono. Such a cut came into wide use from the catwalks of high fashion in the 70s and 80s and has since been considered a classic. And this means that you can sew a trendy dress without any special knowledge and experience of a cutter.
For this model, there are two ways to build details directly on the fabric. But first you need to understand a few things:
- the pattern of the "bat" dress from knitwear and dress fabric is no different;
- front shelf andthe back of the dress are identical;
- the details do not have any darts for the bust, as the sleeve model assumes a loose fit in the armpit area, where the fabric itself fits into a beautiful drapery.
The first method involves taking the following measurements:
- hip circumference;
- chest height;
- height from shoulder to waist;
- sleeve length;
- product length.
No desire or ability to measure the figure? This is not a reason to abandon the idea, since you can sew a "bat" dress without measurements. This will require a regular T-shirt that fits the size.
Building parts to measure
How to build a pattern for a bat dress directly on the fabric? Stages:
- fold the canvas in four;
- draw a line at the height of the chest from the folded corner - this will be the height of the armhole;
- measure ¼ of the chest girth on the received line;
- at the level of the waist height + 20 cm, draw a line on which ¼ of the hip circumference is marked;
- at the neck from the corner measure the length of the sleeve + 7 cm - this will be the border of the sleeve;
- outline a neckline 7 cm wide, the edge of which is raised by 1.5 cm;
- from the received point, lower the line of the sleeve so that the edge of the cuff is lowered 7 cm from the top fold;
- connect the points of ¼ of the girths of the chest and hips and draw a smooth line of the lower cut of the sleeve so that the cuff remains 9 cm wide.
Everything, the details of the cut can be cut and sewn.
Building details with a T-shirt
The T-shirt cutting option is suitable if the product is sewn from knitwear. The bat dress pattern is built as follows:
- fold the canvas in four;
- T-shirt is folded in half and applied to the unfolded fabric so that the corner of the folded fabric is near the neckline;
- T-shirt is outlined and removed;
- shoulder cut is extended by the desired amount;
- the lower cut of the sleeve is connected with a smooth line to the side cut;
- outline the neckline.
This option can also be used for dress fabrics, only in this case it will be necessary to lay the T-shirt not fold in fold, but stepping back from the fold of the fabric by 5-6 cm. You will also need to increase the size of the armhole. This is to make the dress not so close to the body, which is very important, because dress fabrics will look more beautiful with a free silhouette.
There is one little trick that seamstresses use when they sew from knitwear. The pattern of the "bat" dress should be built on the fabric only after the fabric has been decanted. This means that the piece of fabric must be stretched and ironed. It is best to first test a small cut measuring 10 by 10 cm and see how it deforms. This will make it possible to avoid shrinkage of the finished product. In addition, along the test segment, you canwill determine the need for decating the entire fabric, since it is mandatory for natural fibers, but not in the case of synthetics.
Easiest for beginners to work with knitwear. The main thing is to purchase a knitting needle for a sewing machine and pick up a fabric that will not crumble. How to sew from knitwear? The pattern of the "bat" dress is immediately built on the canvas, the details are cut out with a small allowance of 0.5-0.7 cm. For fabrics such as diving, lacoste, oil, jersey and velor, a regular machine stitch will suffice.
Things are somewhat different with dress fabrics. For example, satin, silk and staple will require zigzag or overlock stitching. At the same time, 0.7-1 cm should be left for the allowance so that the thin threads of the fabric do not disperse during wear.