- Material selection
- Preparation for sewing
- Creating a pattern
- Building a sleeve
- Decorative elements
- Assembly of parts
Today, more than ever, simplicity of cut of clothes is in trend. The loose dress has been a hit for several seasons in a row. Only the density of the material, the decor change, and some modeling moments are introduced, but basically the cut remains unchanged. The pattern of a free dress is quite simple to build, so even the most inexperienced seamstress will cope with sewing such a product. Of course, you can easily go to the store and buy the finished product. But independent tailoring has a lot of advantages, the main of which is the cost, which allows you to treat yourself to a couple of new things for the same money. How to sew a free dress at home, and we will talk further.
Loose dress is best sewn from knitted fabric. It should be chosen based on the time of year. For winter, you can take angora or wool, for spring and autumn - diving, footer, jersey, for summerthe ideal option would be a stretch cooler and micro oil. Also in the work you can use dress fabrics with a transverse stretch. The advantage of stretch fabrics is that they wrinkle less. And given that the loose dress is quite wide, this fact plays in favor of the appearance of the thing.
Preparation for sewing
Calculations and taking measurements is an integral part of the process of creating blanks for any product. The loose dress pattern is based on the following body measurements:
- bust, waist and hips;
- chest height;
- back and shoulder width;
- height of back and front to waist;
- product length;
- upper arm circumference;
- neck circumference.
All measurements should be written down on a piece of paper to make it easier to transfer them to the drawing.
Creating a pattern
Loose dress, as a rule, has either an A-line shape or a straight silhouette. The template for both models is the same, and all additional elements are built during the modeling process. The template is best done on a piece of wallpaper or construction film. The latter option is more practical if you plan to create not one, but several dresses.
So, in order to sew a loose dress with your own hands, you will first need to develop a pattern based on the measurements taken. First, you should draw a rectangle in which half of the back and half of the front will be built. Top and bottom sides should be equalhalf the circumference of the chest, and the side ones - the length of the product. From the upper corner, you need to step back by the size of the measurements "height of the chest" and "the height of the back and front to the waist" and draw additional horizontal lines. The first will be the chest line, and the second will be the waist line. From the latter, you should retreat another 20 cm and mark the line of the hips. Continuing to create the basic grid, you should note the width of the back and calculate the width of the armhole in order to draw additional verticals. To do this, along the chest line from the left side of the rectangle, the value of the measure “width of the back” recede and put a point from which the armhole begins. To calculate its length, you need to divide half the chest volume by 4 and add 2 cm. This value is also marked on the chest line and put a dot. The rest will refer to the front shelf.
Next, start marking the shoulder seams and neckline. Everything is quite simple here: the value corresponding to half the girth of the neck recedes from the upper corners and the shoulder area is highlighted. In this case, the extreme point should be underestimated by 1 cm, and from the side of the back, the rounding of the neck should be raised by 1 cm, and the shoulder seam should also be drawn with a bevel of 1 cm. point, connecting it with the edges of the shoulder seams. From this central point, the side seams are lowered down, which are slightly parted to the sides to the bottom line, in accordance with the volume of the hips.
Loose dress eliminates waist darts, which simplifies the construction of the template. However, if the fit does not suit you, the product can be fitted slightly from the back.
Building a sleeve
For a free-cut summer dress, it will be enough to process the armhole. A warmer version will need to be supplemented with a sleeve. It can be one-piece or set-in. They are built in different ways. If you continue the shoulder seam and, cutting the details of the base of the dress along the side seam, remove the lower cut of the sleeve from it, a one-piece version will come out. For a set-in sleeve, you will need to fold the details of the base along the shoulders and transfer the cut of the armhole to a separate sheet for the drawing. After that, along the upper rounding, you will need to rise by 1.5 cm and draw a circle based on the outline of the resulting line. On the lower border of this figure, in the center, you should place a measurement of the girth of the upper arm and draw an eye, descending along the borders of the circle and reduced to a straight line.
The dress will come out truly sophisticated if you use the decor correctly. For example, plain knitwear can be diluted with lace inserted into the shoulders or around the neck. You can also beat a contrasting combination of canvases of the same quality. The loose dresses shown in the article have various decorative embellishments that can serve as an example or be an inspiration for more interesting design ideas.
In addition to the standard decoration options, you can experiment with textures. For example, make a dress with a light chiffon collar and sleeves with mother-of-pearl buttons. In combination with dark knitwear, this dress will be a great office dress.option.
Do not forget about such elements as pockets, they will perfectly complement loose dresses. Photos of finished products on models will allow you to determine the most appropriate location of these elements. Welted, overhead and with a leaf, decorated with rag roses, rhinestones and sewn-on stones on a strict silhouette of a wide cut, they will look very harmonious and make the image interesting and stylish.
Assembly of parts
In order for the product to come out of high quality, you need to sew all its elements in the correct sequence. First of all, work is carried out with the front shelf, in particular, pockets and other model elements are made out. Next comes the turn of the shoulder seams and stitching of the sleeves. After that, the side sections are closed and the collar is sewn to the neck. Next comes the turn of processing the bottom of the sleeves and hem.