Table of contents:
- The secret of a stylish dress
- Fabric and colors
- Basic template is the head of everything
- Pattern rectangle
- Shoulders and neckline
- Armhole, Dart & Side Seam
2024 Author: Sierra Becker | [email protected]. Last modified: 2024-02-26 03:46
Do you want to sew a beautiful dress, but still doubt your abilities? Get rid of all your doubts! Any beginner can sew a loose-fitting dress with his own hands, the pattern of which is built in just 10 minutes. No complicated calculations and intricate formulas, just a little patience and perseverance - and you can show off a stunning new thing.
The secret of a stylish dress
Undoubtedly, a dress is the thing that will be an appropriate outfit for any event, whether it's a walk with a child, a party or a business meeting. Its versatility directly depends on the choice of fabric for the product itself and accessories that will complement the image.
It is clear that a dress looks stylish only when the right shoes, a strap or a decorative collar and a handbag are matched to it. And when it comes to style and pattern, a loose-fitting dress is perfect for experimenting with style.
Fabric and colors
Colors play an important role. Solid colors give you more room to play with accessories. Colorful prints are limiting, because it is not customary to come to the office, for example, in a dress that resembles the colors of a parrot. At the same time, calm polka dots, checks or stripes will look appropriate in both sports and business style.
As for the type of fabric, silk, staple, cambric, chiffon, viscose are suitable for summer. For the cold season, it is better to choose denser fabrics, such as corduroy, poplin, wool or velvet.
Basic template is the head of everything
Absolutely all clothes are built on the basis of a basic pattern. Free-cut dresses are no exception. And even vice versa, this product does not require any modifications to the basic template. Without tackle darts, without additional shaped lines and cutting elements, which greatly facilitates the work on the product. In fact, the finished base template is the same pattern of a free silhouette dress. So it's up to the small thing - to build the base, and you can start cutting the fabric.
To build a pattern for a loose-fitting dress, you will need the following measurements:
- neck circumference;
- chest;
- waist;
- hips;
- chest height;
- height of back and front to waist;
- shoulder width;
- breast tuck solution;
- sleeve length;
- product length.
For the template, it is most convenient to use construction film. It does not tear or wrinkle like paper. You will also need a permanent marker, a ruler and a measuring tape.
Pattern rectangle
The drawing starts with a vertical line equal to the length of the dress:
- From its extreme points at a right angle, lay horizontal lines equal to half the measurement of “chest girth”.
- The lines close into a rectangle.
- Further along the left vertical from above, the value corresponding to the height of the chest recede and draw a horizontal line of the chest.
- According to the measure "the height of the back and front to the waist", draw the horizontal "waistline".
- It usually runs a little higher on the back than on the front.
- 20-22 cm below the hip line.
In this lined rectangle, the right vertical is the middle of the back, and the left one is the middle of the front.
Shoulders and neckline
Further, the values of measurements are transferred horizontally, forming a basic grid in the drawing:
- First, the neckline is marked along the back, departing from the angle of 1/3 of the “neck girth” measurement.
- From the received point rise up by 1.5 cm and draw a smooth bend to the upper left corner of the rectangle.
- From the point of the neck at an angle, a shoulder line is laid (measurement "shoulder width").
- Slope for high shoulders 1.5 cm, for normal - 2.5 cm, for sloping - 3.5 cm. This distance is measured from the upper horizontal. These moments should be drawn on the drawing, even if you need a pattern of a loose-fitting dress with a boat neckline. This will avoid errors in the fit of the product.on the figure.
- Next, draw the front neck from the upper right corner of the rectangle.
- Half of the measurement is divided by two, add half a centimeter and raise the edge of the neck along the front by the resulting value. The width of the neckline, as well as on the back, should be equal to 1/3 of the “neck girth” measurement.
- The neck is drawn with a smooth line from the top point to the corner of the rectangle.
- Then proceed to the shoulder section. On the front, it should be 105 cm lower than on the back. But on the basic pattern of a loose-fitting dress, a tuck for the chest is located in the shoulder section. After it can be transferred to the side seam. Therefore, the shoulder cut is indicated after the armhole is ready along the back.
Armhole, Dart & Side Seam
- From the left vertical along the chest line, measure half the value of the width of the back, put a point and raise the perpendicular to the upper border of the rectangle. This will be the back area.
- The armhole area follows. Its width along the chest line should be equal to half the girth of the chest, divided by 4 + 2 cm. The rest is the zone of the shelf. The armhole area is also closed perpendicular to the upper horizontal of the drawing.
- On the perpendicular separating the back area, measure 1/3 of its part from the chest line and put a dot.
- On the chest line, find the middle of the armhole zone. A smooth line connects these points with the shoulder cut.
- Further, on the perpendicular of the zone of the front and armholes, they also put a point at the level of 1/3 of its height. Remember that the shoulder seamthe front should be slanted 1.5 cm lower than the back. In this case, the armhole is shifted towards the armhole zone by a distance equal to half the chest girth divided by 10.
- This point is connected to the top of the front neck.
- Next work on the chest tuck. ½ of the “breast tuck solution” measurement retreats from the right vertical, and a perpendicular is raised from this point. At the intersection with the shoulder cut, 4 cm recede from the obtained point and lower the line to the starting point of the tuck.
- Further along the line of the hips from the left and from the right vertical lay 1/4 of the circumference of the hips + 2 cm. A side seam is laid through these points from the middle of the armhole to the lower border of the rectangle.
- To build a pattern of a loose-fitting dress with pockets along the hip line, draw a pocket burlap. It can be made as a one-piece or sewn on.
If you need a pattern of a loose-fitting dress with a sleeve, then you will need to cut out the template, glue an additional film and extend the shoulder section to the desired length, and wrap the side seam along the armhole with an angle so that the lower and upper sections of the sleeve are parallel.
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