Cuffs on sleeves: tailoring technology

2024 Author: Sierra Becker | [email protected]. Last modified: 2024-02-26 03:46

For many needlewomen, it is not a problem to sew a knitted T-shirt or sweatpants. But when it comes to more complex work, for example, tailoring a shirt, you need to have either experience or a fairly good abstract with the theory of processing this product. Back yoke, shoulder seams, buttonholes and stand-up collar are usually easy to wear. But the processing of the cuff of the sleeve becomes a stumbling block for many.

The peculiarity of the long sleeve is that it has a slit, or, as it is also called, a slot. And if the short version is simply tucked up and adjusted, then the long version will need to be worked more carefully. There are several processing methods. They will be discussed further.

Processing options

The sleeve cuff of a women's shirt can be decorated with a classic and fake vent, a clean cut cut, an air loop and a zipper.

A classic vent is usually used in a men's shirt. Only sometimes they make out a zipper and a purely machined cut. Even if the sleeve cuff is under cufflinks, a slot is made on shirts for men and placed in the middle of the cutbutton.

Location of sleeve slit

According to the cut, the long sleeve can be one-seam and two-seam. In both the first and second versions, an incision is made at the cuff. In a two-seam sleeve, everything is simple: the sections of the additional seam 10-12 cm from the bottom are left open. If the sleeve is one-sutural, it is folded along the sections. Next, the center of the lower cut is determined and the perpendicular is raised from it by 10-12 cm.

When sewing short sleeve shirts, do not cut.

Option one: classic slot

We are used to having at least three buttons on the sleeves of a dress shirt. Two on the cuff (to adjust its width) and one in the middle of a special cut. Such a clasp is usually made when processing a cut with a classic slot. In this case, the edges of the sleeve cuff coincide with the edges of the slots and form an overlap. The edge that is closer to the seam of the sleeve always serves as an allowance for the fastener. It is on it that the button is placed.

How to sew a cuff to a sleeve with a classic slot? First, two strips of fabric are cut along the shared thread:

• twice as wide as the finished piping and 5 cm longer than the cut;
• 1.5 cm wide and 0.5 cm longer than the cut.

A large strip is used to decorate the outer edge of the cut, a smaller one is used to decorate the edge of the inner overlap.

• Processing the bottom of the sleeve begins with the fact that they take a smaller strip of facing and connect it to the cut of the sleeve, which is closer to the main seam. For thisthe strip is applied to the edge of the cut from the inside and adjusted. After the free edge is tucked over the face and a line is laid, closing the free sections.
• A large strip is sewn according to the same principle so that the sections are closed in the facing.
• At the top of the cut of the sleeve to the facings, oblique notches are made.
• The smaller facing is turned inside out, ironed, bending the edges of the cuts inward.
• The large facing is unwound, the upper sections are folded over with an envelope and stitched along the edge, securing the upper base of the sleeve cut.

When the incision is made, cuff parts already stabilized with interlining and interconnected are attached along the bottom. At the same time, the fabric of the sleeve is laid in folds, stepping back from the cut on the side of the part, the slots running along the top, 3-4 cm.

The slots of the left and right sleeves are processed in a mirror image.

Second variant: turning cut

One of the simplest options for processing a cut when sewing shirts is to decorate with an oblique trim. As a rule, with this processing, the button is not sewn in the center of the cut.

• from the main fabric "along the oblique" cut out a strip of fabric;
• unfold the cut of the sleeve in a straight line and on the wrong side attach the inlay cut to cut;
• the sewn part is smoothed, tucked over the face and a line is laid along the fold.

Third option: a clean cut cut

For decoration with this method, you will need a strip of fabric equal to the lengthsleeve slit plus 4 cm and width 4 cm.

• The item is placed on the sleeve panel so that its cut is exactly in the center of the strip.
• A line is laid around the cut, notches are made in the corners and the sewn part is wrapped inside out.
• The part is ironed out, the edges are tucked inward and a line is laid along the fold.

This finish is most often used in women's shirts. Moreover, the length of the sleeve here can be any, and air loops from the braid can be inserted into the facing. With this type of cut processing, a regular inside-out lapel can be designed.

This method is also used when making a sleeve with a zipper. First, a zipper is attached, on top of it - a facing. Thus, a neatly designed lock comes out.

Option four: fake slot

The easiest and fastest way to make a sleeve vent is to make a fake vent. The length of the sleeve with this design can be any. As a rule, this method is used when sewing women's clothes. As a cuff, a strip of fabric is used, equal to the required length along the girth of the arm + overlap on the fastener. An incision is not made on the sleeve, and the fold is not closed into the cuff detail. The sleeve panel, which is not included in the cuff along the bottom cut, is turned inside out twice and stitched, and a button is sewn on the cuff and a loop is sewn.

Fifth option: double-seam cuff design

If, according to the idea of the model, the sleeve should be with two seams, then the facing of the sleeve cutmake whole. This simplifies the processing a bit, as all you need to do is lay and stitch the fabric correctly.