- Lack of experience is not a hindrance
- Taking measurements
- Basic template grid
- Cut elements
- A bit of tricks
The thinnest delicate silk and delicate weightless lace are simply created in order to emphasize graceful female forms. All girls love beautiful underwear, peignoirs and nightgowns - this is a fact. And as always happens with true love, it is not without difficulties. Looking at the cost of decent underwear, sometimes you realize that it is easier to love at a distance. And there is no point in arguing whether the high cost is justified. It is much better to look at it with irony, draw an analogy with unrequited love and make your love with your own hands. Yes, you can sew a nightgown yourself like in a store, choosing similar fabrics and laces. But if you completely trust fantasy, you can create a unique thing.
Lack of experience is not a hindrance
How to sew a nightgown without even the slightest idea where to start? There would be a desire, but experience is a gain! Of course, here you can not do without a step-by-step guide. But before proceeding topractical part, some general theory will not hurt.
When choosing a fabric, you should give preference to thin canvases. Satin nightgowns look great, but budget crepe satin will not work for them. Yes, outwardly it looks very presentable, and even shimmers like satin, but this canvas is too dense and will look rough in the product. The ideal option is silk, natural or artificial. You can also pick up thin satin, chiffon or guipure. A combination of different textures of canvases will look no less interesting. A great example is a silk nightgown with lace.
Take measurements from the figure for tailoring any product is as necessary as trying on shoes before buying them. Nothing good will come of the idea of making a nightgown pattern “by eye”. Therefore, using a centimeter tape measure parameters such as:
- chest height;
- breast tuck solution;
- length back and front to waist;
- back width;
- product length.
These measurements are used to build a basic pattern. A nightgown is modeled on a template by drawing shaped lines on the drawing. Here you can think over all the decorative openwork inserts and draperies, draw the line of the detachable chest, outline the neckline and the place where the lace edging is attached. It is also easy to measure the length of the straps on the base template. This is much more convenient than measuring them with a centimeter tape on the figure. Therefore, in order to sew a nightgown as it should be, you need all the elements of the cut and everythingdraw details on the base template.
Basic template grid
So that the finished pattern does not wrinkle and tear at hand, it is best to make it from construction film. It costs a penny and is sold in any building materials store. It is best to draw on it with a permanent marker.
First, a basic grid is built, then the cut elements are drawn.
- Start the drawing by constructing a right angle, where the vertical is the length of the product, and the horizontal is half the measure of "breast volume".
- The corner is closed into a rectangle.
- The upper horizontal is divided into three zones: back - ½ measurements of the "width of the back"; armhole - half the circumference of the chest, divided by four + 2 cm; breasts - no calculations.
- From the middle of the armhole zone, an auxiliary vertical is drawn, which will serve as a guide for the side seam.
- According to the measure of "chest height", build a horizontal line. This will be the chest line.
- From the points that define the zone of the back, armhole and front, perpendiculars are lowered to the second horizontal in the drawing.
- From the upper left corner of the rectangle, they drop to a distance equal to the measurement of "the length of the back to the waist." And draw a perpendicular to the auxiliary vertical.
- Similar actions are performed from the upper right corner of the rectangle, using the value of the measurement "front length to waist". And also draw a perpendicular.
- The resulting lines are connected by a smooth bend, making it on the right half of the rectangle. This will be the waist line. The larger the chest, the lower it will be onfront panel.
- The hip line is placed 20 cm below the waist.
The basic grid of the template is ready.
The next step in constructing the pattern is to determine the bust darts, form the side seam and draw the details.
- On the line of the chest, 1/2 measurements of the “breast darts solution” recede from the right vertical and a perpendicular is drawn from the point upwards.
- Next, two points are found: one is located on the line of the border of the armhole and the front 5 cm below the upper horizontal; the second is 7 cm to the left of the upper right corner of the triangle and 2 cm above the upper horizontal. The points connect with a straight line.
- Next, the breast tuck is finalized. To do this, from the intersection of the newly laid line and the perpendicular raised from the starting point "1/2 solution of breast tucks", retreat 3-4 cm and lower the line to the starting point.
- To form a side seam along the hip line from the left and right verticals, lay off 1/2 measurements of the “hip circumference” + 2 cm for a free fit. Further, through this point, from the middle of the armhole to the bottom of the product, draw a straight or curved side seam at the waist.
At this stage, the template is ready to draw the details. The case for small: draw the neckline of the chest and straps.
A bit of tricks
How to sew a nightgown so that it is neat and nothing betrays that it is not a factory product? First of all, before assembling parts with a machine seam, they must be swept away. Side cuts are bestclose with a linen seam and do not use a zigzag. Ideally, this should be an overlock. Before stitching the laces, the edges of the cuts of the main fabric must be overcast or tucked. Lace elements are best sewn by hand first, and then stitched with a zig-zag stitch with a small width and medium pitch.