Table of contents:
- A-Line Dress: Pattern
- Flashlight sleeve extended to the bottom
- Fluff sleeve gathered at the bottom and top
- Flashlight sleeve extended at the top
- Sewing the base of the dress
- Sewing and sewing in flashlight sleeves
2024 Author: Sierra Becker | [email protected]. Last modified: 2024-02-26 03:47
Flashlight - the style of the sleeve, sewn into the armhole with the formation of gathers and tapering at the bottom to fit the arm. Due to the originality of the pattern, it turns out to be lush and rounded. This piece of clothing got its name because of its resemblance to a street lamp. Less commonly, such a sleeve is called a puff.
Many people like the puff sleeve dress because of its lightness and romanticism. At the same time, the buff can have both an office blouse and an elegant dress for a girl. A flare sleeve paired with an A-line dress creates a casual, youthful style. At the same time, it can be of various lengths and fluffiness, end with a cuff or elastic band, be made of lace, organza and other light fabrics.
A-Line Dress: Pattern
The construction of the A-silhouette pattern is based on a change in the drawing of the base of a straight dress:
- Build a basic drawing (base pattern).
- Determine the desired length of the dress, mark it on the line of the middle of the drawing of the front and back (segment AB).
- Change the silhouette. To do this, increase the width alongbottom line by 4–6 cm. Draw a straight line from the lower corner of the armhole to the marked point (segment HK).
- Adjust the bottom line by lifting it along the side by 1.5-2 cm as shown in the figure (KM segment).
- Remove waist darts.
- Remove the shoulder darts (if the chest is large, shorten it by 2-3 cm).
- Shorten the shoulder seam 0.5-1.5 cm from the armhole side to better fit the puff sleeve.
- Measure the side lines of the front and back, correct if there is a discrepancy in length.
- Design the neckline according to your own wishes. If necessary, mark the position of the clasp.
Cut out the finished pieces and cut them out on the fabric from which the puff sleeve dress will be made. The part of the shelf is one-piece, with a fold in the middle. The back can be either solid or made up of two parts with a seam in the middle.
Flashlight sleeve extended to the bottom
As a basis for a flashlight, extended to the bottom, a pattern of a single-seam sleeve is used:
- Build a base drawing.
- Draw a vertical line in the middle, divide the sleeve into eight parts, as shown in Figure 1.
- Cut out the resulting pattern and lay it out on paper, spreading the lower part along the cuts. The wider the gap between the parts of the pattern, the more magnificent the sleeve will turn out. For medium puff, the sleeve width should be doubled.
- Set aside 6 cm from the middle line (less - for children's patterns), draw a smoothbottom line as shown in picture 1.
- Cut out the piece, cut out from the fabric, adding allowances for the seams.
This lantern sleeve pattern requires a slight shortening of the shoulder seam of the base of the dress (0.5 cm).
Fluff sleeve gathered at the bottom and top
The base for the flashlight, extended along the collar and bottom, is also a pattern of a single-seam sleeve:
- Build a base drawing.
- Draw a vertical line in the middle, divide the sleeve into eight parts, as shown in Figure 2.
- Cut out the resulting pattern and lay it out on paper, spreading the cut parts parallel to each other at a distance of 6 cm for medium splendor. Gaps can be increased up to 8cm for a larger finished sleeve, or reduced for a tighter fit.
- At the middle mark, set aside 6 cm down (less - for children's patterns), draw a smooth bottom line as shown in Figure 2.
- Raise the hem of the sleeve by 2 cm (less - for children's patterns), smoothly draw a line, as shown in the figure.
- Cut out the piece, cut out from the fabric, adding allowances for the seams.
Depending on the volume of the sleeve, the shoulder seam of the base of the dress needs to be shortened from 0.5 to 1.5 cm.
Long lantern sleeve is puffy at the top and at the wrist. Most often, this version of it is used in evening dresses and carnival costumes, however, you can also find it in everyday clothes.
Flashlight sleeve extended at the top
The flashlight sleeve pattern, extended at the top, is made on the basis of the drawing of a single-seam sleeve:
- Build a base drawing.
- Draw a vertical line in the middle, divide the sleeve into eight parts, as shown in Figure 3.
- Cut out the resulting pattern and lay it out on paper. Move the upper part of the sleeve, which will form a flashlight, to the desired distance.
- Raise the hem of the sleeve by 2-3 cm (less - for children's patterns), smoothly draw a line, as shown in Figure 3. This is necessary for a beautiful fit when creating assemblies. The lower part remains unchanged.
- Cut out the piece, cut out from the fabric, adding allowances for the seams.
Depending on the volume of the sleeve, it is necessary to shorten the shoulder seam of the dress by 0.5 to 1.5 cm.
The bottom of the lantern sleeve can be decorated with lace, cuff, oblique trim.
Sewing the base of the dress
A dress with puff sleeves, which has an A-line, is sewn very simply and quickly. The whole process consists of the following steps:
- Make shoulder darts (if any), iron them.
- Fold the back pieces, if not one-piece, right sides inward, seam, taking into account the fastener.
- Fold back and front right sides inward, sew side and shoulder seams.
- Process the neckline (turning, oblique trim or sew a collar)
- Finish the bottom of the dress.
Beforesew puffed sleeves, iron the finished base, check for sleeve eye marks and measure the size of the armhole.
Sewing and sewing in flashlight sleeves
When the base of the dress is ready, you can proceed to work with the sleeve. Its sewing and stitching into the armhole consist of the following steps:
- Chalk out the area along the edge, intended for assembly.
- Loosen the upper thread tension and select the longest stitch on the machine.
- Lay two lines parallel to each other, stepping back 5 mm from the seam line.
- Pull the bottom threads of the stitches to form gathers.
- Spread them evenly.
- Sewing sleeve.
- Pin the ruffled sleeve to the armhole, adjust its width if necessary.
- Stitch in flashlight and remove stitches to form ruffles.
- Process the bottom of the sleeve in the chosen way.
Knowing how to sew lantern sleeves, you can experiment with their width, length, and also with the choice of the basis of the product. This piece of clothing can look completely different on a business dress for an adult woman and on a little girl's home outfit.
A dress with a lantern sleeve is very relevant today. If it has an A-silhouette, then in the summer it will go well with flat sandals, and in the cold season with over the knee boots.
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