Codpiece - what is it? Sewing a zipper into trousers with a codpiece

2024 Author: Sierra Becker | [email protected]. Last modified: 2024-02-26 03:47

The overwhelming majority of models of men's and women's trousers are tailored to a specific type of human figure. For the perfect fit of products, they most often provide elements such as a belt, tucks, folds and, of course, a codpiece. Not everyone knows what it is, and the importance of this nondescript at first glance detail of clothing can hardly be overestimated. In this article, we will analyze what a codpiece is, why it is needed and how to sew it into trousers correctly.

Evolution

Few people know that in the days of jousting tournaments, when warriors wore heavy armor, such an element of combat attire as a codpiece was invented. That this is such an important invention and that it will reach our days, no one probably imagined. Of course, the codpiece has changed beyond recognition since then.

Initially it was a metal plate that served as a groin cover, its protection. This element of armor could look different - a small detail covering manhood, or even a rather large structure, whichfastened in front above the groin, and from the back - to the belt above the buttocks.

Over time, others learned what a codpiece is. It was part of men's clothing (trousers, pantaloons), but its appearance was somewhat different than we are used to seeing. This item was a rectangle that was attached to the trousers with buttons.

Covering the secret

The codpiece in the photo is an element of classic trousers (rarely skirts). It is a fabric detail that covers the slit between the left and right halves of the pants, fastened with a zipper, buttons or buttons. Another, but less well-known name for such an element of clothing is a valance. It is very important for beginner tailors to initially understand how important it is to be able to cut out and sew in a codpiece correctly, what it is in general, because this is perhaps the most significant place in trousers.

The codpiece is located in the front of the pants, in the most visible place, if it is sewn incorrectly, then the pants will sit ugly, and such pants will be uncomfortable to wear. In addition, you must also learn to distinguish between concepts such as a codpiece and a slope. The first is the outer part, behind which the clasp is hidden, the second is a piece of fabric that prevents underwear, linen or skin from getting into the teeth of the zipper, insert a slope under the zipper.

Important points

Sewing in the codpiece, which is the front part of the trousers, moreover, is quite functional, requires accuracy. An unsuccessfully opened zipper can simply “chew the fabric”, and then it will be difficult to avoidincidental situation. To protect yourself from such awkwardness in advance, you should not expand or narrow the codpiece, the zipper is not sewn to the trousers, but to the valance - this is a fundamental point.

There is a difference in how to sew in the codpiece in women's and men's trousers. So, it is believed that the codpiece is attached to the right in women's pants, while for men, on the contrary, this part must be inserted into the left half of the trousers. If a thin fabric is used for sewing, it is better to duplicate the codpiece and the slope, so the material will not wrinkle. However, this should not be done with thick fabrics - the product may turn out to be too rough.

Codpiece cut

There are also differences in how the codpiece is cut out (the photo of the workpiece is above). This part can be one-piece or stitched. In the first option, during the construction of the main pattern of the product, it is necessary to attach an additional element to the scheme - a gap, which is a rectangle 5 cm wide, 19 cm long. It is important not to forget to round the outer lower corner of the part. The slope is always cut out separately. For him, you need to prepare a small piece of fabric in advance, it is better if it is the material from which the product is made. The size of the slope varies in the following ranges:

• Width (cut on a weft thread) - 7-8 cm.
• Length (along the shared thread) - 18-20 cm.

After cutting and duplicating, the slope must be folded in half (along the long side) and sewn with an overlock. It is also necessary to process the codpiece (one-piece valance) using an overlock.

Fine work

Direct sewing in of a zipper and subsequent stitching of a codpiece is a difficult and responsible task. It is very important that all the details are cut correctly and that there are no distortions.

Before you start sewing, you need to make allowances for the zipper. To do this, on the left half of the trousers (for women, or the right for men), draw a strip along the line of the middle seam, stepping back 1 cm towards the outer edge of the gap. Then, bending the fabric along this line, sweep the resulting allowance, and, placing a zipper under it with the left side, so that only the teeth are visible, pin it. Put the slope under the fastener, aligning its upper edge with the waist line on the trousers, and the lower edge with the other end of the zipper, and then sew. Fold the legs together, leveling them along the middle seam (face). And the zipper (the right, free side, if the trousers are men's - then the left) is sewn to the right valance.

After sewing in the zipper, the middle seam must be sewn by connecting the centers of the trousers. The line should be laid to the limiter on the lock, not reaching it half a centimeter. The last, final step will be laying the finishing line along the codpiece so that the seam is even. It should be laid along a predetermined line.