- Coat time
- How to choose the right fabric?
- Types of fabrics
- Fabric composition
- A variety of drape
Today, a well-chosen coat is not only comfortable and warm clothing, but also a stylish wardrobe item that can emphasize your dignity.
Today, coats can be seen not only in the usual spring and autumn seasons, but also in harsh winters and even in summer. It is understandable. Technological progress has also touched this segment. For the manufacture of the product used overcoat fabric. The drape was primarily associated with the traditional coat. Nowadays, a large number of duplicating materials have appeared that are not inferior to natural fabrics at all, and the sewing technology has also changed. The corporate manual labor needed to make coats in the distant future is automated in some operations. In this regard, in large factories, it takes from four to ten days to fully release the finished product, but this is only with adhesive production technology.
As for the tailoring of a completely handmade coat, sometimes eight times more time is spent on its production. Only the elite class coats are now sewn in this way. This requires a high-level master, which, of course, is reflected in the cost of the finished product.products.
If you want your coat to look 100%, then the tailor must be really good. At the same time, you not only need to sew well, you also need to understand which fabric is better to choose for this particular model, choose the right lining and insulation, if necessary.
How to choose the right fabric?
Now in the windows you can find a huge variety of fabrics suitable for sewing coats, which retain heat well and have increased wear resistance. Therefore, before you go shopping for fabric, you need to decide for whom you will sew and for what weather. Oddly enough, but fabrics can be intended for children, women and men, and are also divided into winter, demi-season and summer.
Of course, mainly fabrics are designed for the autumn-spring period, as well as for winter. A fabric for a demi-season coat should have special properties, since such a product does not assume insulation, which means that the fabrics must have high thermal insulation. Coats for the winter season consist of the upper fabric itself, followed by wind-resistant, insulating and cushioning fabrics. That is why winter fabric should not have special thermal insulation. It needs to be light, beautiful and water-repellent.
As for summer coats, anthers and raincoats, then the main criterion for choosing will be water-repellent.
Types of fabrics
Depending on the structure of the material and raw materials, all coat fabrics are divided into twomain types: cotton and wool. In turn, woolen fabrics for coats are divided into: worsted, coarse-clothed and fine-clothed.
This type of fabric, like most natural materials, has a glorious and centuries-old history. Its production became possible only after the invention of a special loom. This machine is capable of producing fabrics in which threads are arranged in several rows. Drap is a fabric that mainly consists of two layers of threads, although it can have one and a half layers. This feature made it possible to experiment with warp and weft threads, while creating a large number of material variations.
Over time, the technology has improved, and the masters began to replace the inner thread with a cheaper and worse quality. At the same time, the cost of the material decreased. Later, the wool fabric was replaced with linen and cotton, resulting in new varieties of drape.
Drap is a fabric ideal for making coats. You can verify this by looking at fashion magazines for several years. Casual, sports, youth, elegant and, of course, business clothes were made from this material.
Drap is a fabric with excellent thermal insulation properties, which is why it is not blown by the wind and people wearing clothes from it are not afraid of even the most severe frosts. The fabric holds its shape well and perfectly emphasizes the silhouette.
If the material is of the highest grade and consists ofdouble-sided wool, then the front and wrong sides are practically indistinguishable. This effect is achieved only if pure wool threads of perfect spinning are used. This feature allows you to reuse the material. If the seams fray, then the coat can be altered by replacing the wrong side with the front. This is what distinguishes drape from other materials.
The composition of the fabric may vary slightly, depending on its type. So, in a pure woolen drape, additives make up only 15%, and those, by and large, are wool, only restored by a chemical method. Semi-woolen drape in its composition contains from 30 to 85 percent wool. In this case, the front side of the fabric is made of pure wool, and viscose, nitron or nylon fibers can be used for the wrong side. The disadvantage of this type of fabric is its friability and softness. Therefore, it is most often used to make workwear and protective suits.
Distinguish between pressed, velor and fluffy drapes. The fabric in which threads of different colors are used is called melange drape. The fabric, the photo of which is below, just belongs to this type of material. Only the fabric that is made according to a certain technology and contains only wool in its composition is considered a classic. During its production, the technological process is strictly observed.
A variety of drape
One of the most popular varieties of coat fabrics is drape velor. This fabric has a velvety surface and consistsfrom fine wool. Most often used for making hats and winter coats.
The linear density of velor is 100 tex, and consists of two-faced weave hardware yarn. Density warp 98%, weft 151%, 760 g/m² surface tension has a drape. The fabric during finishing work is subjected to strong napping and felling, resulting in a beautiful and soft.