After constructing the pattern of the desired product and transferring it to the fabric, one should not forget about the seam allowances. They are required to connect parts and depend on several conditions. First of all, attention is paid to the type of material and its properties, such as, for example, flowability, thickness. For different products and for each individual seam, the amount of allowance will be different.
Why is this value different
The allowance varies depending on:
- material type: knitwear, fur, silk;
- product type: bed linen, skirt, trousers;
- seam design features: edging, closed cut.
The size of the seam allowances for mass-produced and custom-tailored products differs due to the nature of the technology. To create the correct pattern for the product, it should be taken into account that too large allowances tighten the fabric, and with small allowances at the junction, the sewing will spread at the seams. If the size of the seam allowance is incorrectly selected, the appearance of the product can be severely affected: distortions, gathering andother defects.
How long to retreat
Some magazines give patterns with seam allowances. The average value is 1.5 cm. This is not always convenient, since this value cannot be the same for all parts of the pattern. It is best to immediately cut off 15 mm from the edge of the pattern and re-build the necessary pattern lines. This is more convenient than aligning everything in a cut product.
Here are the commonly used seam allowances (in cm):
|Shoulder seams, raised seams without finishing stitches||1, 5-2|
|Medium back cut, side cut in trousers and skirt||1, 5-2|
|Middle seam in trousers||2-3|
|Stepper in trousers||1, 5-2|
|Side cuts in the product and on the sleeves||2-3|
|Armhole, rim and necklines||1, 0|
|Sewing the bodice to the skirt (at the waistline)||1, 0|
|Waist top||1, 0|
|Patch pocket - top cut||2, 5-3|
|Patch pocket - side and bottom cut||0, 7-1|
|Bottom dress, straight skirt||4-5|
|Wedge bottom skirt||2, 5-3|
|Bottoms of shirts, blouses, jackets||2, 5-3|
|Sun skirt bottom||1, 5-2|
Taking into account the materials, the above values must be increased, according tothe following table, a few centimeters.
|Coat fabrics, bulk materials, all seams except:||0, 5|
|on the sides of the cuff and collar||0, 5-0, 7|
|stitched to the waist||0, 7-0, 8|
|Seams in lining||2-5|
|Processing the cuff, collar with lining fabric||2-2, 5|
|batting details||0, 7-1, 0|
|Details from foam rubber, synthetic winterizer||0, 4-0, 5|
Methods of applying to fabric
You can use different tools to draw lines on the fabric to show the seam allowances. Each of them is convenient in its own way, but the disadvantages are not alien to them.
- Chalk. It is undesirable for beginner craftswomen to use it. The line turns out to be thick, it is inconvenient to draw it, as the fabric shifts.
- Thin bar of soap. The line is thinner, but on some materials it is almost invisible or it is quickly erased. In addition, soap dust irritates the nasal mucosa when inhaled.
- Felt-tip pens, markers. A very beginner-friendly tool. The line is thin and well visible, but the process takes a long time.
Experienced craftswomen make seam allowances by eye, and with great accuracy, and make patterns already taking into account all the increases. But in order to fill your hand and get the product exactly the way you wanted, you need to carefully understandall the wisdom of sewing.