Table of contents:
- What to look out for
- Searching for a template and taking measurements
- Preparation of skins
- Sewing
- Pattern of natural fur coat with hood
- Stand collar patternnatural fur coats
2024 Author: Sierra Becker | [email protected]. Last modified: 2024-02-26 03:47
If you have a lot of free time, you can save a lot and build a natural fur coat pattern yourself. If it will be difficult for you, there is another option - to buy fur and find a tailor, the cost of whose services will be much less than the cost of a finished fur coat. To be competent in the matter and successfully cooperate with the tailor, let's start studying this issue.
What to look out for
When patterning a natural fur coat, pay attention to the following:
- The length of a straight fur coat is the distance from the shoulder to the knee, the short one is from the shoulder to the waist plus 10 cm.
- For fur coat sizes from 42 to 48 sizes, you will need a fur fabric of 150 cm, for 50 and more it is recommended to take a fabric for two lengths.
- If you plan to sew a fur coat with a hood, feel free to add 80 cm to the canvas, with a stand-up collar - 50 cm.
- Onpockets do not allocate additional length, they are usually made from the pieces left after the pattern.
- Allow 10 cm for seams and allowances.
Searching for a template and taking measurements
The first step is to create a natural fur coat pattern. Or search for a pattern for a pattern in open sources, for example, in fashion magazines. In order for the natural fur coat pattern to be successful and the product to fit well, be guided by the outerwear you already have, for example, a jacket or coat.
To make the future fur coat fit your physique, find out the following parameters:
- chest height;
- waist and bust;
- shoulder and back length.
In the same place where you took the pattern from, there will be a table - choose the appropriate size. To cut out all the details evenly, transfer them to paper. When you start cutting, do not forget to mark the places where the connection and sewing will subsequently take place.
Preparation of skins
This is perhaps the most important step in the pattern of a natural fur coat. Its further quality directly depends on the preparation of materials. Be as careful as possible.
Cut the skin with a furry knife. Try not to damage the pile. Carefully get rid of everything superfluous: head, paws and tail. Then the defective areas of the mezdra and pile are eliminated. From two to four centimeters are left for the places of folds.
Skins are laid skin side down for about an hour. Before that, they are gently moistened, so thatwater did not get on the fur. Further, they are turned over, stretched on a plane, and the edges are fastened with thin nails or stapler staples.
After the skins have dried, they are placed on the template. All villi should be directed in one direction, and fur shades should be combined with each other. The skins are pricked, and then the excess is cut off from the skin.
Sewing
The plates are connected with a thread with a seam called "zigzag". Its peculiarity is that its execution occurs from right to left. At the beginning of the connection, several stitches are made. Subsequent punctures are made after 2-3 mm. Do not forget about the pile. When it gets under the threads, the furriers do not sew further, they straighten the pile with a needle.
The stitched product is straightened and the seams are smoothed on it. Then there is a recheck. The product is again sent to the pattern, the excess fur is removed.
Next, grind down the sides and shoulder seams. After sewing the lining.
The fur coat goes to the fitting to clarify the size. Excess fur is cut off, the bottom of the fur coat is hemmed. The lining is sewn on and the hooks are installed.
If you are not afraid of such painstaking work, proceed to the next step in the natural fur coat pattern. Is it a hood or a collar.
Pattern of natural fur coat with hood
Hooded clothing appeared before mankind realized that clothing can be used as a social marker of success. There was no fashion. Tailors with the ability to sew clothes with a hood were in price, because both the poor and noble people loved to hide their faces. The hood covered the face and kept warm.
To sew a matching hood, follow the instructions:
- Measure the circumference of your head and the distance from the top of your head to the middle of your shoulders.
- Put point A in the lower left corner.
- At a 90° angle, draw a line up from the point and place point A1 at a distance of 4 cm from the starting point.
- Perpendicular to point A1 step back 1 cm to the right. Mark point A2.
- Measure and fold the length of the neck of the back and front according to the fur coat pattern. Add to this the value of 3 cm. Postpone the resulting distance from point A. Got point B1.
- Connect A2 and B1. On this segment, put point B. It should be from A2 at a distance equal to the length of the neck + 1.5 cm. Perpendicular to A2B1, draw a segment 10 cm long from point B. This will be the length of the tuck - point D.
- Set aside 1.5 cm from point B to the left and right. These will be points B1 and B2, respectively. Connect the dots as follows: C1-D and C2-D. For segment A2B1, select a suitable bend.
- Assign the edge of the hood. Draw a line from point A1 upwards. Mark point D on it at a distance from A1 equal to the height of the head (from item 2) + 3–5 cm at your discretion.
- Now the width of the hood. Divide the circumference of the head by 3 and add 4–9 cm. Set aside this distance from D and put point B.
- Step back 1–2 cm from point B - this will be point B2. Use it to draw the top edge of the hood. Connect B1 and B2. To add elegance, round the line.
Stand collar patternnatural fur coats
If the hood pattern seems too complicated, try a stand-up collar. Even a beginner can handle this detail perfectly. Let's take a look at the example of the classic version, and then where the fantasy will take you:
- Find out the length of the neck of the fur coat.
- Draw a rectangle ABCD where AB=SH=3–5 cm (stand height) and BV=AH=neck length divided by two + bead width.
- To the left of G, set aside the point G1 at a distance of the width of the side. Draw a perpendicular from G1 to BV - point G2 has appeared.
- Round corner G2VG.
The fold of the collar will serve as a segment AB. The stand will be sewn up to the edge of the bead.
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