Table of contents:
- Measuring
- The first stage of building the base: the grid
- The second stage of building the base: details
- Building a sleeve
- Simulation
- Choose fabric
2024 Author: Sierra Becker | [email protected]. Last modified: 2024-02-26 03:47
All needlewomen know how much you can save the family budget if you sew things for the family and for yourself. Often, tailoring is several times cheaper, and things are of better quality than market ones. Naturally, in order to achieve an excellent result, experience is required, but even if it is not there, then such practice will not be in vain and will certainly come in handy in the manufacture of other things. So, it's time to arm yourself with scissors, a sewing machine and a centimeter tape, purchase materials and get to work.
A bit of theory will help you understand how a women's coat pattern is built. In fact, there is nothing complicated in the drawing, and the process itself involves transferring the measurements taken from the figure onto paper to design the product template. Therefore, a little diligence and patience - and you can enjoy the result. Many sewing publications offer a ready-made coat patternfemale. Burda, for example, is one of the most popular. However, independent construction has a number of advantages, because it does not use standard generally accepted measurements for a certain size, but personal measurements. That is why the product will sit much better on the figure.
This article will consider a women's coat: a pattern on which it is sewn, and its construction, as well as materials that are best used in work.
Measuring
In order for the product to sit well on the figure and repeat all the curves of the body without creases and extra folds, it must be sewn taking into account the characteristics of the physique. That's what measurements are for. The pattern-base of a woman's coat requires the following measurements: volumes of the neck, chest, waist, hips, upper arm, chest darts, back width, height from shoulder to center of chest, to waist (along the back and along the front through the chest), shoulder width, sleeve length and the entire product. All these values must be written down and you can start working on the drawing.
The first stage of building the base: the grid
Like most products, the women's winter coat pattern is built in a rectangle, divided into sections by additional lines. It is called the base grid. The vertical side of the rectangle should be equal to the length of the product, and the horizontal side should be equal to the “bust volume” measurement + 3 cm for a free fit. The upper limit defines the leverage level. From it you need to go down to the height of the chest and draw a horizontal line in the chest area, lower - the waist and even lower - the hips.
From verticalsides along the chest line on the left, you need to set aside half the width of the chest, and from the right - half the solution of the tucks. Raise perpendiculars from the obtained points. After the half-girth of the chest should be divided into 4 parts and add 2 cm to the resulting value. The corresponding distance should be set aside on the chest line from the point that determines the width of the back, put a point and raise the perpendicular. Thus, the base grid will come out, where the back zone, the armhole zone and the front shelf zone are already indicated. The armhole area along the chest line must be divided in half and the perpendicular should be lowered down - this will be the border of the side seam of the product. On the basis of this grid, any product is built, including women's coats. The pattern at this stage needs to be finalized, and it can be used as a template.
The second stage of building the base: details
The rest of the process is to refine the details.
- In the upper corners of the rectangle, ¼ measurements of the girth of the neck recede and draw the neck. Deepen on the back by 3 cm, on the front - by 7 cm.
- The shoulder sections are built from the received points. They should be beveled about 1.5 cm towards the center of the rectangle.
- On the shoulder of the front shelf from the perpendicular raised from the border of the tuck solution, retreat 3 cm and lower the straight line to the same point. The shoulder seam is extended by the same distance (3 cm). This will be the bust tuck.
- From the shoulder points, draw an armhole to the center point, from where the side seam comes out.
- If the model does not providewaist tucks, then immediately move to the hip line. From the verticals of the rectangle along the corresponding line, lay off ½ the measure of the circumference of the hips and put dots. Side seams, if necessary, expand from the center of the armhole to the hips. If desired, the top of the coat can also be made a trapezoid.
- If tucks are provided, then the difference between the volumes of the hips and waist is determined and the resulting value is distributed into tucks. Their top should reach the chest line, and the bottom should end at a distance of 5 cm from the hip line.
Building a sleeve
What can be a woman's coat? The pattern can be built with a one-piece sleeve or with a set-in sleeve. The first option is simpler and provides for the extension of the shoulder seam by the required amount and the construction of the lower section of the sleeve from the side seam. This is the perfect option for a beginner. If you already have a minimum practice of sewing things, then you can work on a set-in sleeve.
To build such a sleeve, you need ready-made patterns of shelves. Here you will need to circle the eye on the finished armhole. To do this, the shelf templates are folded over the shoulder and the cut is circled. After it is overestimated by 1.5 cm and an even circle is drawn on its basis. A line is drawn along the bottom of this circle, on which they indicate the width of the upper arm + 2 cm for a free fit. Next, it remains to lower the lines for the seam of the sleeve and outline the circle in a circle, leading it to the points of the border of the width of the arm. At this stage, all the templates are ready and you can cut out a women's coat. The pattern of this product maybe used both for warm products and for a summer cardigan. It will only be necessary to add different allowances for a loose fit and insulation of the product.
Simulation
The finished pattern of the women's coat can be finalized. Here you can designate embossed seams, pockets, additional decorative elements, such as straps for fasteners, a double back in the area of the shoulder blades, and so on. You can also think of shoulder straps, a strap on the back at the waist and other elements.
Choose fabric
For coats, it is best to choose soft and warm fabrics, such as polar or cashmere. But here it is worth noting that often such things are blown by the wind. Therefore, if you need a warm winter coat, then the best option would be a raincoat fabric with special impregnation, which should be duplicated with synthetic winterizer or other insulation.
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