Table of contents:
- Building a Pleated Skirt Pattern
- Fabric selection and calculation
- Auxiliary steps for beginners
- Crease calculation
- Working with fabric
- Assembly of parts
- Creases are the most crucial moment
- Final steps in sewing a skirt with bow pleats
2024 Author: Sierra Becker | [email protected]. Last modified: 2024-02-26 03:47
Fashion for skirts is changing, but there is an unchanging classic that is always in trend. Strict skirts, pencil skirts and pleated skirts are still relevant today. Only the fashion for the length changes, it jumps above the knee, then below.
Now in fashion are skirts with bow pleats that reach approximately mid-calf. For tailoring products, both the thinnest light fabrics and dense ones that perfectly keep their shape are used.
This model emphasizes a thin waist and looks great on tall and small women. Pairs well with stilettos and flats. Depending on what fabric the product is made of, you can even wear a skirt with moccasins.
Building a Pleated Skirt Pattern
With a pair of pleated skirts in different colors, you can create some additional looks. Patterns of skirts with bow folds are built quite simply. Such a model does not require a drawing, but for the first time you can practice on paper in order to understand how to draw and lay folds correctly. The fabric can shift during operation, and the folds will turn out to be of different widths. If you practice initially on paper, then it will be easier to deal with the fabric. It takes one evening to sew a skirt with bow pleats.
Fabric selection and calculation
First of all, you need to buy fabric. For summer, you should choose thin, light fabrics. For autumn, dense fabrics are suitable, it is possible with the addition of wool. It is also worth considering your complexion. For lush hips, you should not pick up very dense fabrics, they will add even more volume.
Next, you should decide on the length of the product and buy two lengths of fabric plus a margin for the belt. If the length of the product is 1 meter, then you need to buy 2 meters of fabric + 10 cm for the belt, also 1 cm will be used to sew on the belt and 5 cm to hem the bottom. Total 2 m 16 cm.
Auxiliary steps for beginners
In order not to make mistakes with the calculations and not to redo the work, it is better to make a pattern on tracing paper, it is much easier to mark all the calculations on it. Such a blank can be used more than once, but for different fabrics and with different lengths.
If you have confidence in your actions, you can do everything at once on the fabric. To build a drawing, you need to have two measurements. The first is the length, and the second is the waist circumference (FROM). The first measure was used when calculating the fabric for the product, i.e. its length. The second measurement is needed to calculate the width of the fabric. If OT=70 cm, then the width of the fabric should be three times larger, this additional fabric will be folded. Also, do not forget about the seam allowances.
So (703)+6 cm (1.5 cm side seams)=216 cm.
Crease calculation
The main element in such a skirt is a bow fold. How to calculate the number of folds? It is worth remembering that the folds can be of different widths, small and large. Take a measuring tape or ruler and see what width visually suits you. Take for example a fold 7 cm wide.
70 (FROM): 7 (fold width)=10 (number of folds). This model will have 10 folds. 5 front and 5 back.
Working with fabric
It is advisable to write down the main data so as not to confuse anything, let them be in front of your eyes.
Patterns of skirts with bow pleats are transferred to the material from tracing paper or drawn with tailor's chalk on the wrong side of the fabric. Before cutting, the fabric needs to be ironed. 10 cm can be immediately cut off on a belt and glued with doubler, let it lie aside for now.
But first, cut the fabric into two pieces of 1.6 m each and fold them edge to edge with their front sides. The edges can be cut off immediately, they do not go to work. The width of the skirt turned out to be 216 cm in total, divide it by 2.
216:2=108 (length of one panel). From the cut edge, you need to set aside 108 cm and draw it down at an angle of 90 degrees. You will get two segments 1.08 x 1.60.
Assembly of parts
For convenience, the edges can be chopped off with pins so that the fabric does not go under the foot of the machine, and stitch the edges of the product. On the one hand, do not sew to the edge, but leave 18-20 cm for sewing in the zipper. The sewn side edges must be processed on an overlock so that the fabric does not fray. If there is no overlock, you canget by with a zigzag. Iron the seams through the iron.
Next, you need to process the bottom, a fabric crease of 2.5 cm2 along the bottom. So it takes 5 cm, which were originally laid on the hem of the bottom, 1 m 1 cm remains. Iron the bottom, work with the iron is carried out through the iron so that there is no gloss on the fabric.
Creases are the most crucial moment
Properly laid folds are a guarantee of success
Half of the work is already done, a little more - and a puffy skirt, made with your own hands, will be ready. Most importantly, slowly go through this stage so that the folds are even, the whole look of the product depends on this.
We decided that the width of one fold is 7 cm. In order to form it correctly, it will take three times as much fabric.
73=21 cm is the amount of fabric that will go into one fold. How to lay a bow fold? It is necessary to mark a section of 21 cm by 7 cm. There will be 3 such sections. The middle section - 7 cm - will come to the fore. Divide the two side parts of 7 cm by 2, it turns out 3.5 - this is the depth of the fold. The rest of the folds are formed in the same way. Each fold must be fixed with pins.
Final steps in sewing a skirt with bow pleats
The next step will be sewing on a zipper, you can use a hidden or regular one.
Go to the belt. There are different patterns of skirts with bow pleats. There are models when a yoke is cut instead of a belt,but such a product is more difficult to sew. In our version, there will be a skirt with a regular belt, so we take an already prepared segment, glued with doubler. OT=70, which means that the length of the belt should be 70 cm + 2 cm for side seams + 3 cm for a button or button.
Belt length 70+2+3=75. It turned out to be 5 cm wide. To stitch it to the skirt, it will take 1 cm on each side. The finished belt will be 4 cm wide.
Sew the edges of the belt from the wrong side, turn out and smooth the belt from the front side, now you need to tack it to the skirt and pull out the pins. A little more work - and a fluffy skirt with your own hands will be made.
When the belt is attached, you can make the last fitting and make sure that the product fits the figure well.
First we attach the belt from the wrong side, and then attach the edge from the front side so that the seam looks even and neat.
The last detail is a button or button. If you stop at a button, you will also have to sew a loop for it.
Bow pleated skirt patterns are easy to make and easy to sew. But you can hear a lot of compliments about your appearance.
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