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Building a basic pattern for straight silhouette skirts
Building a basic pattern for straight silhouette skirts

Any figure can become attractive if the style of the skirt is well chosen, said the eminent connoisseur of the fashion world Christian Dior. When your hopes for a store full of fashion items don't come true, try to solve the problem on your own.

Any needlewoman ever asks herself the question: "Shouldn't I try to make a skirt pattern myself?". Most often, the first sewing experience begins with this. After an excellent result, I want to create and create wonderful things! Stunning unique clothes begin to appear in the wardrobe: blouses, dresses, skirts. The simplest pattern for beginner craftswomen is suitable - a skirt without slots and pockets.

bright summer skirt

Be patient and move on!

Taking measurements to build patterns

First, you must make a basic drawing, which you can continue to use to form other styles of skirts: for example, a pencil, a-line, godet, etc.

leather skirt

To build a drawing of a skirt pattern, take exact measurements from the figure:

  • waist circumference (innarrowest part);
  • hip circumference (according to protruding places);
  • skirt length.

You will also need to apply a value such as "seat height" - this is the length of the vertical segment from the waist to the hips (approximately 19-20 cm) and an increase in loose fit (1-2 cm).

Divide the waist and hip measurements in half.

For example, you got the following results:

  • Half waist circumference - 40cm
  • Half circumference of the hips - 50 cm.
  • Skirt length - 65 cm.

Prepare paper for the drawing: a sheet of wallpaper, drawing paper, etc.

Building the basic base of a straight skirt

To build the pattern, you use the following measurements: OT=40 cm, OB=50 cm, DU=65 cm. Increases in the waist and hips by 1cm.

Get started building your blueprint with our step-by-step instructions. The skirt pattern will be made on paper. Also, immediately prepare a simple pencil, felt-tip pen, ruler, scissors and tape.

The beginning of the construction of any skirt is the construction of a right angle with a vertex at point T. Draw down a segment TH equal to the length of the skirt (65 cm). Set aside the height of the TB seat from the T point (19 - 21 cm). From points T, H, B, draw perpendiculars 50 cm + 1 cm (OB + increase in the hips). Received T1, B1, H1. Calculate the length of BB2. It will be equal to OB + Pb / 2 - 1 \u003d 25 cm. From T2, draw up a line equal to 1.3 cm. From the received mark for the side tuck, set aside 3.2 cm in both directions. Smoothly connect the resulting point with T - this is the top of your pattern.

Now calculate the darts. There is a special formula for this: (OB + Pb) - (OT + Fri). In your case, it turns out (50 + 1) - (40 +1) u003d 10 cm. Divide this value by 3 \u003d 3.3 cm for the back panel and 6 \u003d 1.7 cm for the front panel.

Find the depth of the darts: back - BB3=0.4BB2=0.425=10 cm, front - B1B4=0.4B1B2=0.426.5=10.6 cm.

For a beautiful fit of the skirt according to the figure, it is necessary to slightly, by 1.5-2 cm, narrow the side lines from H2.

basic straight skirt

Circle the finished base pattern with a felt-tip pen with a thick line and cut it out. This is the basis for modeling skirts of any shape.

Economical fabric cutting

The correct location of the skirt pattern on the material leads to its economical use. First, lay out the large parts - the front and back, and lay the smaller ones between them: belt, facing, pockets. Don't forget to leave space between patterns to allow for seam allowances. Please note that they are not taken into account when modeling a pattern. The seam allowance depends on the location in the product. For example, on the sides - from 1.5 to 3 cm, at the waist it is 2.5 - 3.5 cm, for bending from below - from 5 to 7 cm.

Mistakes of inexperienced craftswomen

Common mistakes when making patterns for the first time:

  1. Don't forget the seam allowances! Having laid all the parts of the pattern on the fabric and, having optimally placed them, pin them with pins. Circle the outline with a special pencil or a piece of chalk. Then circle again, taking into account the allowances for the seams - along this line you will cutcloth.
  2. Darts are never cut out! They are simply outlined.
  3. Fabric consumption will be much higher if the fabric is large printed, as the pattern will need to be customized.
  4. Don't forget the grain thread!
  5. When taking measurements to create a skirt pattern, it is better to wear thin clothes or stay in underwear.

They take measurements, usually on the right. To fix the waist line, tie the lace so that it is located horizontally. Don't pull the measuring tape too tight - it just needs to fit well.

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