How to sew a Moscow seam on light fabric? detailed instructions

2024 Author: Sierra Becker | [email protected]. Last modified: 2024-02-26 03:47

Beautifully stitching open sections on thin fabrics can be quite problematic and difficult, since the flowing material can crumble and literally “float” in your hands. Do you want to get a perfect result in the form of a neat, elegantly folded edge? Use the Moscow seam for this. Consider the main stages of its implementation in the form of a step-by-step instruction with photos.

Moscow seam: distinctive features of technology and secrets of execution

This method of processing open sections is most suitable for thin fabrics (photo 1), which have a rare and transparent structure. When working with such materials, situations often arise when the hem is “removed” (especially when edging on an overlock) along with the line. Therefore, special technology has to be used. The basic principle of doing the work is a double turn and stitching almost “seam to seam”. The finished scar turns out to be very narrow (no more than 3-4 mm) and does not visually make the product heavier. What is the secret of thisjewelry, fine work? The Moscow seam differs from others in the special technology of internal processing. The point is cutting off a free section of fabric from the edge almost close to the laid line. Then, after the second turn, a finishing Moscow seam is performed next to or over the first. The scheme in finished form is as follows: on the wrong side along the edge there are two finishing lines (almost uniform), and on the front side - one.

Stage one: hem and stitching

1. Pre-iron the fabric.
2. Cut off the edge of the canvas, if necessary, tousled in the form of a fringe.
3. Place the material face down.
4. Tuck the edge 9-10mm.
5. Stitch close to the edge. The distance to it should be no more than 2 mm. The stitch width is standard. Make sure that there is no contraction of the canvas.

In this way, begin to sew a Moscow seam on chiffon, silk and other airy fabrics, provided that the edge goes in a shared or transverse direction. And how to act, for example, when finishing the bottom of a flared skirt? It is necessary to complicate the implementation of the first stage a little. Thanks to additional actions, the result will turn out to be more accurate and elegant.

First turnaround option

A slightly more complicated way to perform the initial stage of turning is better to use if the fabric is cut in an oblique direction or the edge has an arcuate shape. Typically, this problem appears when processing the bottom of a dress or skirt with a flared cut. Allowances forthe seams in such models are no more than 1-1.5 cm, since the fold on the oblique section, even slightly enlarged, will be wavy. So, in order to achieve accuracy, you need to lay a preliminary line along a straight, straightened canvas. Then, bending the fabric, immediately iron it to secure the shape (photo 2). Only after that, make the first line, guided by paragraph 5 of the first stage described above. It is in this slightly complicated version that the Moscow seam is often performed on curtains made of thin fabrics when making lambrequins, where there are different directions of threads when cutting.

Step two: cutting fabric

Let's start on the inside of the seam. With the help of sharp scissors, cut off the gap of the fabric from the edge to the line almost closely from the wrong side (photo 3). Leave a small gap, literally 1 mm. The finished result is much more accurate if the stitched edge is pulled in a semicircle on the index finger of the left hand, and the right hand controls the scissors, while feeling support and limitation. It is important not to overdo it at this stage, so as not to inadvertently damage the seam line, but too wide a rest of the fabric is also useless. As you can see, the Moscow seam is quite a jewelry and painstaking work. For its high-quality implementation, in addition to diligence, an excellent eye and a steady hand are also required. After cutting the hem, you can iron again.

Stage three: second stitching

1. Fold the edge to a width of 2-2.5mm,so that the first line is located in the middle.
2. Machine stitch "needle to needle" or several side by side, retreating to the left by 1-1.5 mm. At the same time, try to stretch the fabric a little and avoid skew, especially with different directions of the shared thread (photo 4).

Performing practically this stage, we can conclude that the width of the finished scar will depend on the location of the first seam in relation to the edge of the fabric. Therefore, the better the workpiece was made, the better the result will be.

So, we have covered all the subtleties of how to make a Moscow seam on chiffon, silk or any thin fabric. Of course, such stitching is also applicable to other materials (with the exception of very dense ones) - crepe, satin, calico, etc. The use of the described technology will allow you to process cuts neatly and beautifully, even without special tools for making finishing elements of products.