Handmade seam. Hand seam. Handmade decorative stitch

2024 Author: Sierra Becker | [email protected]. Last modified: 2024-02-26 03:46

Details of clothing are joined together with seams. For this, a needle is used. With its help, stitches are made with a thread on a fabric or other material, their complete aggregate forms a seam.

Before the invention of sewing machines, all work was done by hand. At home and in handicraft production, this practice still exists. A manual seam is also indispensable at the initial stage of creating clothing models. Various sewing techniques are used to decorate the fabric.

Sewing Principles

A seam connection is formed by weaving one or more threads in a certain sequence. It is advisable to temporarily fasten individual elements of patterns at the initial stage. This connection is usually done by hand. After fitting and final finishing, the hand seam is replaced by machine stitching.

Depending on the end goal, clothing pieces can be connected in various ways. In this case, the seams will differ significantly in stitch density, strength, etc.

BIn some cases, it is not the quality of the connection that comes first, but the decorative properties of laying the threads on the front surface. Such seams are called decorative and they serve to finish the finished product.

The completed movement of the needle and thread forms a stitch on the material. The sequence of such actions is called a line. Joining a piece of fabric with one or more stitches forms a seam.

Regardless of the technique, the stitches on the right and wrong side should be laid evenly, at the same distance from each other, and have an even thread tension.

Types of manual connections

For temporary connection of parts and marks during fitting, a running, cushioning and transfer seam is used. The so-called snares are used to transfer contour lines from one symmetrical part of the product to another.

The edges of the material are processed with a round seam. It is convenient to use it for preparing frills, flounces and other details. A manual seam-line, reminiscent of a machine-made one, is called a stitch. It is used for permanent fastening of clothing parts.

The marking seam is made, as well as the stitch, but not with the same density. The distance between adjacent stitches is made equal to half their length. To prevent "shedding" of the edges of the fabric, they are treated with an overcast seam. It can be oblique, cruciform or looped according to the execution technique.

The hem stitch is used to process tucked edges. According to the execution technique, it can be simple (open), secret orcurly.

Standing connections

Before the invention of sewing machines, hand-stitching was used to fasten pieces of clothing. The difference between the basting connection and the stitching connection is that the needle does not move forward constantly, but returns back with each new injection.

The stitches are not formed alternately, then on the front, then on the wrong side, but cross. This achieves increased strength and elasticity of the connection.

From the front side, the stitches are short, at the same distance from each other. At the same time, on the inside, they are three times longer, go behind each other, do not have gaps and form a solid line.

The so-called machine-made hand seam, or "stitch", is particularly durable. With high-quality performance, there is doubt that it is made by hand. Stitches on the front of the same size without gaps, on the inside they overlap and are twice as long.

Stack joint technique

These seams are also called "back needle". And this is justified, because with each exit to the front part, she takes a step back. The distance can be half the purl stitch or one third of it. Depending on the purpose of the connection, the gap can be from 1 to 7 mm.

Sew from right to left. The needle is inserted from top to bottom, held under the fabric and brought to the front part with the formation of a stitch of the required length from the inside. Then she takes a step back. An injectionis made again in the first hole, after which the cycle is repeated both from the inside and on the front. In this case, a hand stitch “stitch” is formed.

If, after the thread is brought out to the front part, the second injection is made not into the first hole, but in the middle between the entry and exit of the needle, then such a manual stitch is called “by the needle”. It does not form a solid line of stitches on the right side, is not as strong as "stitch", but is faster.

Finishing seams

In some cases, when mounting parts of clothing or fixing individual parts of it, a pattern is formed on the surface that is pleasing to the eye. Such a connection is called finishing.

For hemming knitwear and sewing thick non-flowing fabrics, a hand-made decorative seam "goat" is used, forming a simple cross-shaped pattern.

The nun connection trims the edges of pockets, cuts and folds. Such fasteners are made in the form of an equilateral triangle. Loop stitches in the form of branches and chains are typical for chain stitch and herringbone. They are used for hemming the edges of the material.

These types of finishes can also be used to fasten parts of clothing, and used separately, only to give the finished product a decorative distinctive feature.

Embroidery

Mass factory production of clothing pushed hand sewing into the background. Only true connoisseurs of original clothes or artistic embroidery are seriously engaged in this craft. Sometimes the fantasy of such tailors is amazing when there are simply uniqueitems with sewn-on lapels, vents, buttonholes and pockets.

The monastery sister and hand stitching when finishing the robes of the clergy is a mandatory practice. Special care and accuracy is required in the preparation of the episcopal vestments. Handmade embroidered icons are a unique technique that requires both perseverance, special skills and purity of thoughts.

A special place is occupied by gold and silk embroidery, as well as carpet and volumetric techniques. Works of amazing beauty, trimmed with sequins, mirrors, beads and gold. Cross-stitch has been known since antiquity, and handicraft paintings, decor items, and clothes were decorated with it.

Hand satin stitch is a series of flat stitches on fabric. In the process of work, they completely fill the contour of the applied decorative pattern. In this technique, seams of various designs are used: “Vladimir”, “stem”, “knot”, “narrow satin roll”, “attached loop” and others. There are several types of smooth surface: artistic color, white, satin, Chinese, Japanese, Russian Alexander and Mstera.

Hand Fur Stitch

It is used to connect parts of fur skins and for their minor repairs. For sewing, needles and threads are used in accordance with the thickness of the skin layer. The thicker and longer the fur, the larger the diameter of the thread and the size of the needle. To connect thin skins, the stitch frequency should increase.

The seam is made from right to left. At the end of the thread, the knot is notis done, it is fastened with several stitches in one place. Before starting work, the pile must be laid in such a way that it does not interfere with sewing. For this, the skins are folded with fur inside. Separate hairs are tucked with a needle on the front side.

A manual furrier stitch is performed by moving the needle away from you. Two skins are pierced at once, the thread is pulled, thrown over the edge and again introduced into the same hole. After tightening the thread tightly, the loop is tightened. The needle is thrown again over the edge, and the process is repeated with the second hole.

Secrets of craftsmanship

Handmade seam begins with pulling the thread needle into the eye. So that it is obedient in work, does not get confused and does not twist, it should be cut off from the coil after threading.

Chipping thread ruins teeth and doesn't look professional at all. It is better to make a neat cut with sharp scissors not across it, but at an angle, then it will be easier to get into the ear.

It is better not to knit the knot at the end of the thread, but to fasten it with a few reverse stitches. An experienced craftswoman knows that any seal on the fabric when ironed can be imprinted on the surface or will be translucent.

Sewing with a long thread (more than 70 cm) is inconvenient. In the old days, craftswomen practicing this method were spoken of as lazy girls who did not want to make an extra move.