2024 Author: Sierra Becker | [email protected]. Last modified: 2024-02-26 03:46
Today we are sewing a comfortable and beautiful fur vest. The pattern is made with reliefs, so that in the end the thing will fit the figure perfectly. Our vest will need a lining. It is better to do it yourself, quilting silk satin and a base of thin woolen drape together.
You need to know the measurements of neck, chest, waist and hips, the widest point of the arm, the length and width of the back, the length of the shoulder, the height of the chest, the distance between the peaks of the chest.
- Building an auxiliary grid on which the vest pattern will be drawn. First, draw a rectangle AABB, where AA=BB =chest circumference / 4 + 4 (horizontal lines) and AB=AB=back length + 20. Draw a horizontal line of the chest inside it, located at a distance from the top AC=AC=chest circumference/6 + 5; and the waistline at a distance AD =AD=back length.
- From the chest line, you need to draw a few more auxiliary ones. Those of them that limit the width of the armhole, we will call EF (on the back) and EF(on the shelves). EF is at distance AE=CF=back width + 1 from the left edge of the rectangle, and EF will be to the right of EF at distance EE=FF=chest circumference/8. Find the midpoint of the segment FF, letthis will be the point X. Draw from X down to the end of the line XX, and the vest pattern will be divided into halves for the front and back. From the chest line, rise along EF up 5 cm (point G), and along EF4 cm (point G). By connecting the points G, X and G with a strongly curved line, you will get the lower part of the armhole.
- Let's draw the front neckline. To do this, from point A, draw down and to the left segments AI=AJ=neck circumference / 6 + 0.5 and connect points I, J with a circle sector. From point I, lying on the line AA, rise vertically by 2 cm and set point H. The HIJ curve is the neckline.
- Step back from point I to the left horizontally 4 cm and put K. Connect H and K with an inclined straight line - this is the segment of the shoulder from the neckline to the tuck (then we will turn the darts into reliefs). In the same place, on the line AA, set aside point Lfrom point Kat a distance KL=chest circumference / 12 - 1. From Kdown to the chest line, draw a vertical segment KM. Draw a line segment MN=MK on the inclined line LM. We got a front shoulder tuck.
- The front shoulder is drawn on the inclined line NC. Set aside 10 cm along it to the left and then lower yourself 1 cm down. Put a point O and connect it to N. With the GO curve you will draw the upper half of the front armhole.
- On the back, the pattern of the vest is built like this. To cut the neck, step back from point A to a distance equal to AI, and then rise 1 cm up. Set point I and connect it to A with a smooth curve.
- Now shoulder and tuck. First along line EF from point Estep back 1 cm down and connect the resulting point (let's denote it Y) with I. Along the line IY, step back to the right 4 cm, put a point K. Another 2 cm to the right, put a point N. Draw a segment KM=8 cm vertically from K. Through M and N, draw a line ending 0.5 cm above N. Designate its end with a point L. The KML corner forms a tuck in the back. Through LY we will draw a segment 10 cm long, marking its right end with the point O. This is how you draw the shoulder. And the OG curve finishes the armhole.
- Go to the construction of side slices. From the vertical line XX at the waistline, step back 1.5 cm in both directions and place points Q and Q. Connect both points with straight lines to X. On the line BB from the middle of the back, step back to BR=hip circumference / 4 + 2, from the middle of the front to BR=hip circumference / 4 + 3. The lines QR and QR will look like like arcs; they intersect with each other in the drawing, so the details that make up the vest pattern must then be transferred separately to another sheet of paper. From point Bstep back vertically down 2.5 cm, from point B - 2 cm. With a smooth line, connect these lowest points on the pattern with Rand R, respectively.
- Only waist darts left. The centers of both darts are located on the line DD, at a distance of 8 cm from the middle of the back and front. On the front pattern, step back 2 cm in both directions horizontally, 14 cm up and 16 cm down. On the pattern of the back - 1.5 cm in both directions and 14/16 cm up / down. Connect the dots to draw tucks. Now connect the corresponding tops of the darts at the waist and shoulders, and lower the verticals from the bottom points of the darts at the waistdown. On them you will cut reliefs.
The fur vest pattern is ready! Next, like real tailors, we will make a fitting sample from an inexpensive fabric and adjust it to fit. It was possible to do otherwise and talk about what changes are made to fit directly on the pattern, but the fitting option still remains the most reliable and simple. When you are sure that the sample fits the figure well, proceed to cutting the fur.
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