Table of contents:
- It all starts with practicing moves
- Main types of sleeves
- For those just starting out
- Working with concepts
- Distribution of landing by ota
- Preparing the sleeve for stitching
- Working with the iron
- Insert sleeve
- Additional steps in progress
If you are wearing a product sewn in an incomprehensible way, then the general appearance will not look very neat. If there are crooked stitching, a sewn-in fold of fabric, or sloppy trimming, it all looks cheap and of poor quality.
It all starts with practicing moves
You always want everything you do to be perfect, but the first time is unlikely to achieve this. And they did it in appearance, they play a key role in the perception of the image. How to sew the sleeves into the armhole so that they look perfect? There is a certain algorithm of work, a technique that has been worked out by masters for many years, and there are no more secrets in this topic. For all types of sleeves, recommendations are provided in order to tell in detail how to sew the sleeves into the armhole.
Main types of sleeves
In different models of clothes there can be sleeves of different shapes, different types. There are options that are most common:
- Non-stop sleeve. In work, it does not require landing. Its usuallyused in products where fitting is not required, these can be men's shirts, tight knitted blouses or crinkled dresses and blouses.
- Sleeve that requires fit is used in different products. There is a special cut here, so that the entire sleeve sleeve is larger than the armhole, and you need to sew it in so that there is no excess fabric left. This type is the most common. It is also used in dresses, jackets and blouses.
- Options where folds or gathers are provided along the collar, when such a sleeve is assembled, it should be 2-3 cm larger than the armhole.
For those just starting out
Craftsmen often have a set of patterns and work on them, they can practically expand or reduce a certain pattern by eye and, skipping some steps in the work, quickly make decisions on how to sew a sleeve into an armhole in the best way.
For those who study, you need to go through all the stages. If the sleeve and armhole match, then there is nothing complicated, it is enough to carefully sweep and stitch everything. Problems usually begin where the armhole is slightly wider than the hem itself. Sewing a sleeve beautifully is not so easy. The most common mistakes are incorrect distribution of the fit and incorrect sleeve connection, even if the fit was done correctly.
You can watch videos to better understand how to sew a sleeve into an armhole. Paukste Irina, a seamstress with many years of experience, maintains her blog, she offers many videos in which she clearly tells how to go through all the stages. For someIt is much easier for people to see the process of work once than to read about it. There is also such a variant of the error, when the landing is distributed incorrectly, and the sleeve is sewn incorrectly.
Working with concepts
Before you figure out how to sew a sleeve into the armhole of knitted and fabric products, it is worth clarifying with the concepts that are used in the work. Landing, what is it? When using the expression to plant or fit the sleeve sleeve, it means that you need to equalize the sleeve to the size of the armhole so that it can be sewn in.
Distribution of landing by ota
It is better to cut the sleeve after the shelves are cut out. The bodice needs to be swept away and the first fitting done. During this period, it is necessary to clarify the armhole, whether it is too shallow or deep, and at this stage, correct it to the desired state. And for a specific armhole, then cut out the sleeve. We will focus more on how to work with a fabric product. For those who are interested in how beautifully to sew a knitted sleeve into an armhole, it is worth saying that the details must be absolutely clearly and correctly connected in accordance with the sizes. The calculation is such that landing an okat on a knitted part is not needed, sew in the same way as on knitwear.
No need to fit an okat around the entire perimeter. Least of all capture comes at hand in front. The main part falls on the top point. When distributing the landing, it is always worth remembering that there should not be any clear transitions.
Preparing the sleeve for stitching
Before connecting the sleeve to the product, it must already be sewn, cuffs or hem do not need to be done yet, becausethat the length will be adjusted later.
Sew along the entire perimeter with the largest stitch. The beginning and end of the line does not need to be fixed. On the one hand, a couple of threads need to be tied into a knot so as not to accidentally pull out. And on the other hand, you need to select one thread and tighten it until the size of the eyelet is equal to the size of the armhole. At this stage, tie this pair of threads too, so that the mark does not bloom. Since it is not difficult to sew a knitted sleeve into an armhole, there is no need to prepare it in any way.
Another option to collect the round is to lay a line by hand at a distance of 0.5 cm from the edge, and then also pull the edges to the desired size. Some masters lay 2 lines in parallel at a distance of 0.8 cm and 0.3 cm from the edge and pull them together. This allows you to strengthen the seam so that it does not accidentally tear.
Working with the iron
Before you sew the sleeves into the armhole, the okat needs to be completed completely. After they are embedded, it is undesirable to touch them. Since it is very difficult to iron the sleeves on the finished product, and additional creases can be made, which are then extremely difficult to correct, and they will spoil the whole look. When the thread is pulled together to the desired size, you need to redistribute the assembly in the upper part most of all, and going down to come to naught.
For work, it is desirable to have a special oval-shaped roller. Width about 13 cm, length 35-40 cm. On the edgethe roller needs to be put on the formed okat and covered with an iron on top.
Next, with gentle movements, form an eye to smooth out all wrinkles and folds. It is good to do this with a steam iron. The iron is needed so that there is no gloss left on the fabric and in order to protect the fabric as much as possible from possible defects. The sleeve should cool down in this position.
The bodice must be turned inside out, and the sleeve, on the contrary, left face out. It must be inserted inside the product so as to combine the cuts of the armhole and the rim. In this position, you need to lay a bast or pin around the perimeter with pins. If there was only a part of the sleeve sewn into the armhole and there was excess fabric left that had nowhere to take it, then you still need to pull off the okat. If everything fits together, then you can sew. The beginning and end of the seam must be secured.
This is what it looks like when finished.
Additional steps in progress
The previous option is quite suitable for thin fabrics, but there is a loose material, one that frays a lot. As soon as the product is cut out, the edges immediately begin to bulge. If you sew such details together, then this seam will burst in the very near future. That is why, after the product is cut out, all side sections must be glued with doubler or interlining 1.5 - 2 cm wide. After gluing, the edges will become denser, and then it will be possible towork. All further stages follow the same pattern. When the sleeve is stitched in, another fitting is done and its length is specified on the figure. The bottom is processed either with a hem or with cuffs, depending on the model.