- Main skirt patterns
- Choose fabric
- Fabric calculation
- Measurements needed to build the base of the skirt
- Building a grid
- Building Darts
- Skirt silhouette
- Joining the lines of the side seam, waist and hem
- Building a belt
- Open your skirts
- Sewing skirts
Modern fashion industry offers countless different models of skirts. Nevertheless, the timeless classic in the form of a straight skirt remains one of the favorite wardrobe items for ladies of any age and physique. In addition, the construction of a straight skirt pattern does not take much time and is within the power of a novice tailor.
Main skirt patterns
To begin with, let's analyze what the main styles and models of skirts are. One of the differences between these products is their differentiation in length. Depending on it, maxi, midi and mini skirts are distinguished.
There are three types of skirts according to the shape: widened up or down, narrowed and straight. Also, skirts are divided depending on the cut. So, the most popular among straight skirts are the classic midi and "pencil". After a short excursion into the world of skirts, let's move on to creating your own skirt.
If you decide to sew a skirt yourself, then you should first choose the right fabric. Straight skirts made of classiccostume fabric. So, choosing the classic black version of the material, you can create a basic thing, to which it will not be difficult to choose the right top. If you choose a vertical striped fabric, this will visually narrow the hips. Also a good option would be to make a straight skirt from fabrics such as tweed, tight knit and corduroy.
So, the fabric is selected. But how much will it take to sew a skirt for you? Calculating the fabric for a straight skirt is a simple matter. We determine the consumption based on such indicators as the volume of the hips, the length of the skirt and the pattern of the fabric. If the volume of your hips is less than 80 centimeters, then you can safely take one length of the skirt. Ladies with big hips need to take two lengths.
To calculate the length of the product, you need to place a measuring tape at the waist and lower it to the point of the intended bottom of the skirt. Don't forget to include seam allowance (about 10 cm) and waist allowance (also about 10 cm) in your calculation.
For example, for a girl with a hip measurement of 100 centimeters, you will need to take two lengths from the skirt plus 10 centimeters for allowances. The belt can be sewn (provided that the fabric has no pattern) using the remaining fabric on the side. The length of the skirt will be 65 centimeters. We carry out simple arithmetic operations: 702 + 10. It turns out that in total you need to take one and a half meters of fabric.
Measurements needed to build the base of the skirt
- Waist (St). It is necessary to draw a tape measure horizontally around the narrowest point. Divide receivednumber by two.
- Hips (Sat). To measure the girth of the hips, the centimeter tape must be placed horizontally at the widest point. The tape must pass along the protruding places. Divide the resulting number by two.
Please note that the measuring tape should not be stretched as this may result in a tight fit at the waist and hips.
The length of the product (Diz) is calculated as follows: a centimeter tape is drawn from the waistline to the estimated length
Looseness allowances are selected according to the type and elasticity of the fabric, as well as the desired freedom of the product. The waist increase (Ft) is from 0 to 1 centimeter. The hip allowance (LB) is between 0 and 2 centimeters
Please note that allowances for loose fit are taken to build half of the piece.
The position of the hip line for building a skirt ranges from 18 to 20 centimeters
Consider a step-by-step pattern of a straight skirt for beginners. To build the pattern itself, we need a pencil, a ruler, graph paper (if such paper is not available, then a piece of wallpaper will do) and scissors. The sequence of actions is as follows.
Building a grid
- On paper in the upper corner, put a point T. From it to the right, draw a line equal to the following measurements: Sat + Pb - and put a point T1.
- From T we draw a line down, equal to the length of the product (Diz). At the end, put the point H.
- Completingrectangle: to the right of point H put point H1.
- On the TH line it is necessary to mark the position of the hip line. To do this, down from the T point, we set aside a distance from 18 to 20 cm - these are traditional numbers that show the height of the hips.
- From point B we draw a line parallel to the line T1H1 and put point B1 at their intersection.
- BB line1 divide in half and put point B2. We draw a vertical line, at the intersection with the line TT1 put a point T2, at the intersection with the line HH1put a dot H2.
In order to build darts along the front and back panels, as well as the side seam, you need to perform some calculations. We need to determine its depth. We calculate according to the following formula: Sat + Fri - St + Fri.
Side seam tuck:
- We set aside from the point T2 to the left and right the same distance along the depth of the tuck: 3 and T4.
- T2T3 =T2T4=tuck depth: 4.
- Connect points T3 and T4 with point B2.
- Line T3B2 divide in half, set aside 0.5 cm to the right and set point P. Connect points T 3, P, B2.
- Do the same with the line T4B2: divide in half, set aside 0.5 cm to the right and set point P 1. Connecting the dotsT4, R, B2.
We make darts of the front and back panels. It is not required to calculate their length using tricky calculations. It is known that the tuck of the front panel should be from 8 to 10 cm long, and the back - from 15 to 20 cm. How exactly to determine the desired length? It is worth focusing on your body type and hip height. So, if you have high hips, then the length of the darts should be chosen to be minimal, and if the hips are low, then the darts should be long.
Let's consider, using the example of averaged values, how it is necessary to build tucks correctly. So, their length for the front and back panels is 9 cm and, accordingly, 17 cm.
- From the T point along the waistline, set aside the T5 point to the right, lower the perpendicular 17 cm long and put the TT5. point.
- The turn of the tuck of the back panel is calculated by dividing its length by six, that is, it is equal to 2.8 cm. We set aside this number in each direction from the perpendicular and put the points T5 / and T5 respectively.
- Connect these points with the point TT5.
- Set aside T1 point T6 from the point T1 along the waist line to the left, lower the perpendicular 9 cm long and set the point TT 6.
- The turn of the tuck of the front panel is calculated in the same way as in the previous paragraph. The resulting number (1.5 cm) is set aside in each direction from the perpendicular and put the points T6/ andT6 respectively.
- Connect these points with the point TT6.
Creating it is very easy. On the bottom line from the point H2 to each side, set aside a narrowing of 1.5 cm and get, respectively, the points H3 and H 4.
Joining the lines of the side seam, waist and hem
Back panel: T, H, H3, B2, R, T3, T5, TT5, T5 /, T.
Front panel: T1, H1/, H 4, B2, T4, T6 /, TT6, T6, T 1.
Building a belt
Measure St multiply by two and add 10 cm to make a clasp. This will be the length of the belt. The width in the classic model is 3-4 cm.
Open your skirts
After we made a pattern of a straight skirt, it is necessary to lay out the resulting blanks on the fabric.
The pattern should be placed on the fabric in such a way that the shared thread is parallel to the panels. If you put the fabric in a different way, it is likely that the product will stretch a lot.
So, we bend the fabric in such a way that the front panel is cut out in one piece, in one piece.
We put the back panel, taking into account the fact that we will not have a cutting slot, that is, we leave two centimeters on it. Don't forget the seam allowances!
The belt must be positioned on the fabric sothe same as the panels: its length is perpendicular to the share thread. You can also cut the skirt directly on the fabric, as shown in the video below.
Having cut out all the details, we proceed to basting. First you need to connect the front and back panels. To do this, we sew, respectively, the side seams of the product. After that, we proceed to the hem of the bottom. Next, sew on the belt. After all parts of the sour cream skirt, try it on. If necessary, we eliminate the shortcomings. We sew the product on a sewing machine and try on a new thing!
With the help of step-by-step instructions and a pattern of a straight skirt for beginners, sewing it was a success!
Now you can see for yourself that creating a thing with your own hands is not so difficult. In addition, despite the fact that a straight skirt is considered classic and versatile, sewn with your own hands, it will be a success.
Pair the straight skirt with classic blouses, both solid and multi-coloured. The perfect complement to the image will be shoes with a small heel. Office outfit ready!
If you like experiments, then try this combination: a straight black skirt in combination with sneakers and a sweatshirt with a cute pattern. Get an unusual outfit from ordinary things.