Table of contents:
- What you need
- Where to start
- Where can I get a pattern without building
- Building a pattern
- Pattern of women's trousers for beginners: step by step instructions
- Pattern for beginners: calculation of the front half
- Building the back half
- Next steps
- Start sewing
- Simulation
- Conclusion
2024 Author: Sierra Becker | [email protected]. Last modified: 2024-02-26 03:46
Every woman should have a sewing machine at home. They use it most often for domestic needs: sew up a hole, shorten a skirt or sew a handkerchief. But what if you sew your own women's trousers? A pattern for beginners can be found ready-made or built on your own. This is not as difficult as it might seem at first glance.
Self-made trousers may be needed in different cases:
- When store-bought pants don't fit properly. This can be caused by various reasons: non-standard ratios of the waist and hips, pregnancy, fullness in some places and others.
- When you want an exclusive. Shops and markets are full of typical products from the simplest fabrics. Exclusive models cost fabulous money.
- When a high-quality fabric was found at home, which is just right for trousers in size and composition.
- When there is not enough money for a new thing. If you compare the cost of the amount of fabric required and the cost of the finished product from the fabric of the same composition, you can see that making trousers yourself will help save money.
If there are very few sewing skills, then you can try to make the simplest model of trousers first. For example, a pattern of women's trousers for beginners can be used (harem pants or trousers with elastic as a result).
What you need
To sew pants, you will need:
- Millimeter paper for building patterns.
- Pencil, needles, spools of thread to match.
- Measuring tape.
- Main and lining fabrics.
- Sewing machine.
- Overlock for processing the edges of the product. If not, it is not necessary to buy a special device. It is quite possible to follow the example of Italian fashion designers and process the edges of the product with an oblique inlay, which is sold in the hardware store. You can cut the inlay yourself from the same lining fabric.
- For finishing as needed: elastic, zipper, buttons, hooks, grosgrain and others. Additional materials are selected in accordance with the needs of the model.
Where to start
In order to make a pattern of trousers yourself, you need to take your measurements. It is better to do this in one underwear. Using a measuring tape, you need to measure yourself in the places necessary to build a pattern:
- FROM (waist circumference). Measure around the waist at the narrowest point.
- OB (hip circumference). Measured at the widest pointtorso. If this is the area of the buttocks, then the measurement is made at the most protruding place without tightening the tape. If the widest point is in the region of the breeches zone, then the tape should be slightly moved down to this zone.
- Bottom Width (SHN).
- DB (side length). This size is determined by the distance along the side of the leg from the waist to the floor.
- BC (seat height). This distance is determined as follows: you need to sit on a chair and lower the perpendicular to the seat. The length of this segment is the required size.
- VK (knee height).
- LH (Stride length). This indicator is calculated from the difference in the length of the product by the lateral step and the height of the seat.
- The width of the front and back of the trousers.
These designations are used when constructing a pattern, and are also used in ready-made patterns in magazines or on the Internet.
Where can I get a pattern without building
If you don't really want to deal with the complex construction of a pattern that uses formulas, you can use the ready-made option:
- Magazine. You can buy a fashion magazine and copy the pattern from there. The convenience of this method lies in the fact that the magazine often describes in detail how to perform individual elements of the model when sewing, as well as gives advice on choosing fabric and cutting products. The downside is that all models are given for the most common sizes and for typical figures. Therefore, owners of non-standard forms will still have to adapt the finished pattern toyourself.
- Ready pants. It happens that in the closet there are old trousers that have become unusable due to the service life or have become corny small. You can take them and rip them apart at the seams, then wash, iron and cut out a new product from them, adding a few centimeters in the right places if necessary.
If there was no ready-made pattern, then it is worth building a pattern that ideally takes into account all the features of the figure and can be used in the future to make various models of women's trousers. Through simple manipulations, the pattern-base of women's trousers for beginners will turn into a designer product.
Building a pattern
For cutting, you will need a pattern of women's trousers for beginners. Step-by-step instructions will help you build it correctly. And with a little effort, you will become the owner of brand new original trousers.
Usually quite difficult is the construction of a pattern of women's trousers. For beginners, complex formulas are not used in the drawings. You will need to use only two body measurements: hip circumference and product length. But it is worth considering that any pattern that is used for the first time must be tailored to a specific figure.
Cutting will need to be done taking into account the fact that you will have to leave more allowances for the seams. For the first time, it is better to do it with a margin in order to protect yourself from a mistake. The second time you can already use the finished pattern and calmly sew women's trousers. Pattern for beginners is done in the verya simple version and is used for sewing straight trousers, which are used in the basic wardrobe of any woman.
This circuit can be built in just half an hour.
Pattern of women's trousers for beginners: step by step instructions
First you need to determine the so-called hip norm. The formula for calculating looks like this: Hb \u003d 1/20. That is, if the hip circumference is 100 cm, then the hip norm calculated using this formula will be equal to 5. The second formula, which is used for construction, concerns determining the value of the hip coefficient. The formula looks like this: Kb \u003d Nb / 2. That is, the hip ratio is half the value of the hip norm. With a hip girth of 100 cm, the coefficient will be equal to 2.5. In the construction of this pattern, seam allowances (1 cm) are already taken into account. The bottom edge is 3cm. A size 54 beginner women's trousers pattern will have a hip norm of 6, and a size 44 will have a hip norm of 4.5. This is how women's trousers begin to be built.
Pattern for beginners: calculation of the front half
It is more convenient to first build a pattern on a scale sheet, then to transfer it to a sheet of paper already in full size.
A square is built in the center of the sheet, containing 5 values of the hip norm on each side. For example, if the hip norm is 5, then the square will have sides of 25 cm each.
Now, from the lower right corner of the resulting square up along its side, set aside the value of 1.5 of the hip norm. In the example, it is equal to 7, 5. From the same corner, set aside to the right 1the size of the norm of the hips. The resulting line is the line of the buttocks. From the resulting angle, it is necessary to set aside a segment equal to half the norm of the hips, and draw a line through its end connecting the first two set points.
Now it is necessary to mark the line of arrows of future trousers on the drawing. To do this, from the lower left corner along the line of the buttocks, it is necessary to set aside 3 norms of the hips to the right and draw a vertical line along this point. Now, from the point of intersection of the line of arrows and the upper surface of the square, you need to measure the length of the trousers, put this segment down along the line of arrows. It turned out the line of the bottom of the trousers. To determine the line of the knee, the segment from the line of the bottom to the line of the buttocks is divided in half.
Now you need to perform the narrowing of the legs. For the classic model of trousers, it is calculated as follows: on the knee line from the arrow line to the right and left sides, set aside along a segment equal to 2.5 of the hip norm. On the bottom of the trousers from the line of arrows, 2 norms of the hips are laid. This is how it is built for such a thing as women's trousers, a pattern. For beginners, even, as you can see, there is nothing complicated.
Building the back half
It is more convenient to build this part of the model on the front half, but for convenience, highlight it in a different color.
You need to find the originally constructed square and above its upper right corner to the left draw a square equal to 1 hip coefficient on each side. Further from the already existing step line of the front half, one norm of the hips should be set aside to the right, and from it a fourth of the norm. Nowit is necessary to draw a smooth line from the received point to the upper left corner of the small square. From the same upper left corner of the small square, it is necessary to set aside 5 values of the norm of the hips so that this line connects with the waist line of the trousers of the front half of the pattern. The line will be slightly angled.
Now you need to add one norm of the hips along the knee line and the bottom line and connect the side seam line. The pattern is ready! Now it remains to transfer it to the required scale on a large sheet of paper and start cutting. You may notice that there are no darts on this pattern. The authors of this method recommend that after cutting, try on the swept trousers and mark the tuck where it is required. This can be determined in a practical way. Some models imply tucks instead of darts, so you can only place them at an equal distance from each other. There is very little left to sew women's trousers. A pattern for beginners of the basics of the cut allows you to master, and then it’s a matter of technology.
Next steps
After transferring the pattern onto paper in full size, you need to take the prepared fabric, iron it if necessary, fold it in half and pin the patterns with needles. Each half of the trousers is cut out in duplicate. Before attaching the pattern to the fabric, you need to determine the direction of the shared thread. The pattern of trousers should be located strictly in a vertical direction. For beginners, you can advise the easiest way to determine the shared thread: you just need to pay attention to the edge of the fabric. She asksdirection of the filament. So the drawing must be applied parallel to the edge of the fabric. Draw future women's trousers on the fabric. Pattern for beginners the basics of cutting and sewing helps to master without any problems.
Start sewing
After the pattern is outlined in chalk on the fabric, you need to cut it out with sharp scissors. Next, the details of the trousers are swept and tried on. If the fit of the trousers on the figure is satisfactory, then you can start sewing on the machine. If the fit requires adjustment, then the basting is carried out again and the product is tried on again. This is done until the landing satisfies the hostess.
Simulation
We examined how a pattern of women's trousers is built (size 54). For beginners, everything was explained in detail. If an elastic band is used when sewing, and the goal is to obtain summer trousers, then silk fabric can be used. If you make an additional narrowing, then you can get pipe trousers that are fashionable now. The basic principle of modeling: where you want the trousers to be wider, the pattern expands, and where you need a tight fit, it narrows.
Conclusion
Thus, having built a drawing, you can sew fashionable women's trousers for yourself in just an evening or two. A pattern for beginners is built quickly and easily. Once you have made a blank, you can sew several models of trousers based on it.
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