Sew a straight skirt: taking measurements, cutting, assembly order, photo

2024 Author: Sierra Becker | [email protected]. Last modified: 2024-02-26 03:45

Despite the practicality of various types of trousers and jeans, many ladies still love skirts. It's feminine and pretty. Sewing a straight skirt is not very difficult. Perhaps this is one of those options that will suit even beginner dressmakers. We offer a detailed description of this type of needlework.

It all starts with measurements

From the moment when there is only a piece of fabric in the hands, until the moment when it turns into a beautiful elegant thing, there are only two main stages - the construction of a pattern and the sewing process. It does not depend on the type of model. To sew a straight skirt, you do not always need a drawing. Sometimes you can mark directly on the fabric, but this requires experience.

In the constructions, it is customary to use approximate markings that allow you to transfer lines and points corresponding to the figure to paper.

For accurate measurements at the waist, you need to tie a braid. This is especially important if the skirt is not sewn for yourself. Visually, the waistline is not always visible. The person himself can correct the braid to the level where it is convenient for him. In addition, anatomicaleveryone's structure is individual.

Ideally, the waist line runs horizontally. If one leg is longer and the other shorter, then the length on the sides on the sewn product will be different. Therefore, by making such a small guideline for yourself, it is much easier to collect the correct data and build a pattern that matches a particular shape.

What you need for work

Before you start any business, you need to prepare and buy everything you need for work. You can sew a straight skirt quickly if all the materials are available. One day is enough to have the finished product on hand.

The fabric can be chosen at your discretion or taking into account the time of year. You will also need threads in the color of the fabric, a centimeter tape, dublerin, pins, a ruler, an iron, a needle and a thread of a contrasting color for basting. Also tailor's chalk or soap, paper and pencil. To sew the product, you need a machine and an overlock for processing internal seams. Sometimes the processing of sections is done in a zigzag, but not all craftswomen recommend this.

Correct measurement records

When the finished pattern is applied to the fabric, the material is folded in half. Therefore, the drawing is done only on half of the figure. These sizes you need:

• FROM - waist circumference. Measured around the torso horizontally on a tied band.
• OB - the girth of the hips is measured at the most convex points of the buttocks and thighs, passes through the stomach. The measuring tape must also run horizontally.
• CI - for sewing any thing, you need to specify its length. In this case, it will be the length of the skirt. It is measured from the waistalong the side line to the level where the bottom of the skirt is planned.

Waist and hip measurements are divided by 4. The resulting figure will be used in the construction of the drawing. If the fabric is not stretchy, then you need to add 2-4 cm for a loose fit.

Working with drawings

It is convenient to perform all actions on a wide table so that the pattern fits completely on it. If there is no such piece of furniture, you can sit on the floor. There are tips on how to sew a straight skirt for beginners. It's better not to miss them. Professionals often don't use them because their skills are honed. And for beginners, it’s better to perform them all, so as not to redo the work later.

Paper for cutting should look like a rectangle with sides:

• CI + 10 cm.
• POB (Hip circumference) + 10 cm.

From the top of the edge you need to step back 5 cm and put a dot. From it, draw a horizontal line across the entire sheet. This is the waistline. All measurements must be signed. From the marked point down, set aside another 18 cm and put a second mark. From it, you also need to draw a horizontal line across the entire sheet. This is the hip line.

From the first point down, you need to postpone the CI and put the third mark. Then again draw a horizontal line. This is the bottom of the item. In order not to get confused, the lines can be signed, as in the photo below.

Working on proportions

The human figure is voluminous. Therefore, the data must be transferred to paper so that the product sits well after assembly and tailoring. From the first longing to the right, you need to postpone POB,put the fourth mark and lower a straight line from it down through LB and LN.

From the first point, you also need to postpone OB/4, put the fifth mark. From it again draw a straight line down through LB and LN. The received lines must be signed for convenience. The one in the middle corresponds to the side seam, and the one that turned out on the right side is the future seam on the back of the shelf.

Building Darts

If you don't tuck, you might think about how to sew a straight skirt with an elastic band. Then the product will not fit snugly on the figure, but folds will appear on top. If the model provides for a tight fit, then from the midline along the LT, you need to set aside 3 cm to the right and left and connect them under the ruler to the center point on the LB. So that there are no sharp corners on the hips, straight lines need to be slightly rounded.

Building the front tuck

It is already clear in the drawing that this is part of the front and back halves of the product, on which tucks need to be built. They will be on the back and front.

From our very first point to the right along the LT, you need to set aside 10 cm and put another mark. From it we lay down 7 cm, and to the right and left - 1 cm each. We connect all the new points. The front darts are ready. Sometimes they are not built in front at all, but this is not suitable for all fabrics.

Build tucks from the back

Drawings are not easy for everyone. That is why in this article the names of points and lines are reduced to a minimum. Often a large amount of data makes it difficultthe working process. To avoid confusion, we use the most basic concepts for construction. From the middle perpendicular line along the LT, 10 cm should be set aside to the right. From the obtained point, lower a straight line measuring 14-15 cm down. This is the length of the back recess. Its width is calculated individually. To do this, use the formula:

POB - Sweat - 2 cm (front undercut) - 6 cm (side undercut).

The resulting figure is divided by 2. This value is plotted to the right and left. They must be marked with dots that are connected to the end of the previously postponed segment, the length of which was 15 cm.

The pattern is ready. If you thoroughly work it out, then 4 tucks can be made on the back half, but this is quite enough for a beginner. The pattern can be cut out.

The fabric needs to be prepared

The hardest part is over. Now you can cut. It is very important to prepare the tissue before this procedure. It needs to be ironed and steamed well, because some types of fabrics can shrink up to 10 cm. If you first cut the product and then iron the seams, the cut may decrease in size. Then the skirt will have to be given to someone.

When the fabric is ironed to the maximum, any defects in the fabric may appear on it. When cutting, you can bypass them, but on the finished product you can’t do anything with them. We continue to consider how to sew a straight skirt with your own hands.

It's time to cut

So that the finished product does not warp,cutting needs to be done correctly. In work, it is important to consider the direction of the shared thread. Some fabrics stretch along it, others - along the weft. If the error cannot be seen immediately, then after the first wash it will immediately become noticeable.

It is also worth paying attention to whether there is a pile or pattern on the fabric. Velvet must be cut in the same direction so that one part of the product is not darker than the other.

Matter is usually folded with the front side inward, the edges are combined. It is easier to sew a straight skirt without slots and cuts. Let's consider this option. The back can be made of two parts, and the front will be solid. In this variant, the pattern in front of the middle is placed to the fold, and the pattern of the back is placed to the edges. Then there will be a seam in the back in the center. If you don’t want it to be there, then the fabric for cutting needs to be folded so that two folds are obtained. Then there will be only two cut parts in the work.

You should always remember about the direction of the shared thread (DN). You can sew a straight skirt on a pattern from a magazine. When translating it onto paper, one must not forget about the arrows that suggest the direction of the DN.

The drawing is laid out on the fabric and pinned with pins around the perimeter. Now it can be circled. Next, you need to mark the allowances. At the bottom you need to add 4 cm, at the top - 1 cm, in the center of the back 2 cm, and on the sides 1 cm for freedom of fit + 2 cm allowances. As you can see, it will not be so easy to sew a straight skirt without a pattern with your own hands.

Darts on the fabric are only transferred, but not cut out. The belt can be cut directly on the fabric. In a free place, you need to set aside POT + 10 cm in length and 8 cm inwidth. The same detail should be cut out on the doubler. They need to be cut out.

Sewing and fitting

The cut elements need to be collected. It is advisable to perform tucks before this, so as not to return to them. They need to be folded with the right side inward and chopped off with a few pins so that they do not move, bast and stitch. Pull out the basting and iron them to the side seams.

If the skirt has a seam at the back, then a zipper can be inserted into it. If you need to sew a straight skirt with only side seams, then you will have to leave a place for the zipper on the side along the length of the fastener. Sweep the skirt and carry out the first fitting. Sometimes fitting can be quite tedious. At this stage, you can see where you need to pick up more fabric, where to release. If the product sat well on the figure, the seams can be stitched, leaving a section for the zipper.

Belt processing

The part of the belt made of fabric and dublerin needs to be glued together with a hot iron. It is advisable to apply it for a few seconds, and then move it to another place. With stroking movements, the dublerin can be stretched or moved. Next, fold the belt in half along the length and iron it.

At this stage, you need to process all the internal seams and sew in the zipper. Now the belt needs to be pinned to the skirt with pins and sewn on.

At the bottom of the product you need to bend and gently iron. The hem is hand-sewn with a hidden seam. Needle punctures should not be visible from the front. On the edge of the belt, you need to make a loop and sew on a button or hook.

When you get the hang of this job, you canstart learning how to sew a straight skirt without a pattern. Then the drawing must be applied directly to the fabric. All subsequent steps will be the same.