Table of contents:
- Choice of style and material
- Building a template
- Calculation for a straight pleated skirt
- Calculation of bow folds
- Calculation and construction of the sun model
- Skirt assembly
2024 Author: Sierra Becker | [email protected]. Last modified: 2024-02-26 03:47
There is nothing new under the sky and everything new is the well-forgotten old. Each of us has heard this truth more than once. And even more than that, I watched the repetition of history with my own eyes. It is believed that fashion is very changeable and cannot be kept up with it. But if you track trend patterns over several decades, you may well notice coincidences. A vivid example of this can be considered a second life given by "Fashionable Sentence" to a fluffy pleated skirt, in which the glamorous divas of the 60s shone. Today, this thing is again at the peak of popularity, we can say that it is again enjoying a moment of glory. Therefore, it's time to put a pleated skirt in your wardrobe. Moreover, it is easy and simple to sew it yourself.
In this article, we will talk about how a pattern of pleated skirts is built and how to calculate the material for such a model. There will alsoconsidered the most fashionable options this season.
Choice of style and material
If we talk about a trendy pleated skirt, then you should immediately exclude small pleats. Now it is not relevant. But wide bow or one-sided folds are exactly the models that you should pay attention to. The length of such a product can be midi and mini.
The pattern of pleated skirts is built quite simply, the main thing here is to arm yourself with a calculator and correctly calculate the desired length of the fabric. But what fabric to choose for the product? The main requirement that is put forward to the material for such a thing is rigidity so that the fabric keeps its shape well. Of course, silk and chiffon can also be folded, but they will not look as impressive as katon, linen or brocade. A skirt with inverted pleats, the pattern of which will be discussed below, can be a great bottom for an elegant dress in the style of the 60s. But for this, you need to choose a stiff, protruding fabric to create the desired silhouette.
The color of the canvas is a matter of taste, and there are no rules. It can be plain canvases, a cage, floral motifs and abstraction with all the colors of the rainbow. The main thing is to correctly combine the colorful bottom with a calmer top.
Building a template
Pattern of pleated skirts from a straight piece of fabric can be built immediately on the canvas. But if this is a sun or half sun model, then you need to make a template from auxiliary material.
In order to make a blank, you need to measure the volumewaist. The hips are not measured for the simple reason that this girth will easily fit into the circumference of the skirt panel, which will increase due to folds. But if the figure is non-standard or the folds are laid not full, but only half the width, then taking measurements from the hips is mandatory.
Calculation for a straight pleated skirt
How to build a straight skirt with pleats? The pattern of such a model is immediately marked on the canvas. Along the edge of the canvas, mark the length of the skirt + allowances for the seam of attaching the belt and the hem of the bottom. Depending on the size of the waist, two or three such segments may be required. It remains only to calculate the width of the fold. To do this, the waist must be divided by the desired number of folds. Or, on the contrary, based on the quantity, calculate the width.
In the economical version, the pattern of pleated skirts can be lined with incomplete laying. The type of product will not suffer from this, but less material will be required. In this option, you need to take not three girths, but two or two and a half.
Calculation of bow folds
The rule of multiplying the waist size by 3 also works here. However, the pattern of a skirt with bow pleats is built a little differently. The fabric for the straight model is also cut in stripes. The length is laid down along the armhole, and processing allowances are made along the top and bottom of the strip. A skirt pattern with bow pleats can also be with incomplete laying. Accordingly, the volume of the product will depend not only on the width of the fold, but also on itsdepths. Ideally, the markup consists of fold width marks, fold mark, start depth mark, full depth mark, and second fold mark.
Calculation and construction of the sun model
How is the fabric calculated for a pleated sun skirt? The pattern of the standard version assumes that the canvas must be folded four times, step back from the angle of 1/6 of the waist circumference and at this distance mark the waist line. After that, the required length is already receding from this line and the hem lines are outlined. The pattern of skirts in the fold of the sun model is cut according to the same principle. There is nothing difficult to build. Only 1/6 of the waist should be multiplied by 3 so that the folds can be laid.
It is worth noting that with this cutting, the width of the fabric of 1.5 m is not enough to fold the fabric in four. And so you need to make a skirt from several parts. At the same time, during cutting, it is necessary to make allowances for the connecting seams.
Skirt assembly
After marking, all folds are smoothed out and outlined. After that, a zipper is sewn into one of the seams. A belt is sewn along the waist line in the form of a narrow strip folded in half. Next, the bottom of the product is processed. It can be simply folded in half and topstitched, or overlocked, ironed and stitched.
On the belt you will need to make a loop and sew on a button. Or use a hook or sew-on button as a fastener. As a result of the work, you will get a different skirt with pleats. The pattern of this product is so simple that eventhe most inexperienced newcomer. Therefore, away all doubts! It's time to please yourself with a new thing of your own making!
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