Table of contents:
- Types of sleeves
- Ways to baste sleeves
- Insert into finished armhole
- Circle landing
- Shirt sleeve
- Insert cuff
2024 Author: Sierra Becker | [email protected]. Last modified: 2024-02-26 03:46
One of the main assembly operations in sewing is the insertion of a sleeve. The uniform fit and beautiful collar speak of the skill of the seamstress who performs this process. Therefore, it is worth analyzing all the nuances in more detail, because the topic of how to sew a sleeve will be of interest to beginner needlewomen.
Types of sleeves
Before sewing a sleeve into a dress or jacket, it is necessary to consider in detail the types of sleeves, because there are several of them and they differ from each other:
- With a fit - the length of the eyelet is longer than the armhole, as a rule, by 5-7 cm.
- With assemblies - with this method, assemblies are made first, and only then the sleeve is inserted. The sleeve hem is 2-3 cm longer for the armhole.
- No fit - the length of the eyelet and armhole are the same, no need to fit, it is important to set the marks correctly. For this type of tailoring, you do not need to try on.
- With a gusset - an insert in the underarm area so that the clothes do not hinder movement.
Depending on the type of sleeve that the client wants, select the appropriate blank and cut out the part. If you are using the first orthe second option, the fitting must be done, because in the process you will have to tweak something, each has different parameters, they may not exactly match the patterns.
Ways to baste sleeves
Immediately you should not sew in the part, because you need to do a fitting. This will give you the opportunity to correct various nuances. The fabric differs in its properties and characteristics - one stretches too much, you need to reduce the width, the other is dry, you need to expand the armhole. That is why we first sew the sleeves by hand, without a machine, with large stitches. There are several ways to sew a sleeve with overcasting:
- Into finished armhole.
- Circle landing.
- Open armhole or shirt sleeve.
Each of these methods is different from each other, so it is worth considering them separately.
Insert into finished armhole
This method involves sewing in a finished sleeve. To do this, it is necessary to sew the details of the sleeve, then the shoulder and side seams, only after that perform the subsequent installation. After all the manipulations described above, you can start tagging. To do this, you need to turn the product inside out, and the sleeve is there, insert it inside the armhole, combining the edges of the parts. Then match the shoulder seam and the central part of the hem, fix with a pin, then match the other two points of the sleeve with the corresponding notches and evenly distribute the fit.
After that, we proceed to basting - we make 2 loose lines with a stitch width of no more than 1 centimeter. They need to be laid out in such a wayto close the gaps from the first with the second line. In this case, the fit will remain in the place where you made it while sewing on the machine.
After trying on, if you don't need to change anything, you can talk about how to sew a sleeve on a typewriter. To do this, you need to step back from the edge of the product by 1 cm. The important point is that the machine does not tighten the seam, because it can burst during wear. Therefore, after sewing, it is necessary to stretch it a little, in which case you will be sure of the quality of your product. For those who are thinking about how to sew in a sleeve so that the inside is beautiful, there is only one answer - to process the edge with an overlock or a special stitch on a typewriter.
Circle landing
The second option may seem a little easier, because sewing on the sleeve using the circular fit method implies the following. The bottom line is that you need to lay two lines, and then pull them together to the required amount. The main thing is not to overdo it, otherwise the size of the eyelet will be much less than the armhole. Usually the first line is done at a distance of 8 mm from the edge of the sleeve, and the second - 3 mm. Next, you need to combine the three control points and make a seam.
If everything is done correctly, the sleeve will look great on the customer, in case of creases, it is necessary to correct the situation. That is why you should not immediately think about how to sew a sleeve on a typewriter, but use a basting.
Shirt sleeve
This type of insert has a no-stop fitsleeves. There are no particular difficulties, so do not puzzle over how beautifully to sew a sleeve. The main point is the combination of control points and a line on a typewriter. The insert is made into an open armhole, only after that it is possible to grind the sleeve-side seam. This option involves sewing without any nuances. But if there are problems, they can be easily solved.
For too dry fabric, after sewing, you need to make notches, in which case the front side will look more beautiful. It is also important to do an intermediate ironing after each operation.
On the sleeve you can add:
- patch - sewn on the elbow, is a decorative element, mostly oval in shape, located on the front part in the elbow area, you first need to process the edges;
- gusset - used if the finished product is a little hampering or it should be in style, has a diamond shape, can be from one or two parts.
How to sew a gusset into a sleeve? Leave an unsewn section according to the size of the part in the side seam in the area where the sleeve is sewn in, combine the edges on the wrong side, make a basting. After, from the front side, check the correctness of the actions performed, if everything is correct, then make a line with a typewriter.
Insert cuff
In shirts, cuffs are a must. On a women's blouse, this can be a thin strip that trims the edge of the sleeve, and on a men's shirt, it can be a cuff with loops and buttons, as well aswith the ability to adjust the width.
There are a few things to keep in mind:
- cut the item you need the size and shape;
- glue the workpiece on one side with duplicate material - this will enable the cuff to keep its shape.
After these manipulations, you can make a blank - sew the parts together. Now it's time to think about how to sew the cuffs into the sleeves. This is not so difficult - the first step is to lay the fold so that the width of the sleeve matches the width of the workpiece. After that, we insert the sleeve into the inside of the part by 1 cm and make a line along the edge so that everything is also sewn on the wrong side. When the cuff is attached, the finishing line remains - it must be done 5 mm below the first in a circle. Now we make loops and sew on buttons. At this stage, the shirt or blouse can be considered complete.
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