The seam "goat" as the uniqueness of needlework

2024 Author: Sierra Becker | [email protected]. Last modified: 2024-02-26 03:46

There are types of needlework that a machine cannot replace. Crochet, bobbin, cross-stitch (simple and Bulgarian), handmade haute couture cannot be replaced by machine work.

The emergence of the simplest seams

But now there is a choice - hand embroidery or machine. And there were times when seams, especially primitive ones, did not decorate clothes, but simply and roughly fastened its details together. The simplest seams arose, to which the “goat” seam belongs. But, as you know, "amulets" arose almost before clothing itself. Dictated by the fear of nature, drawings of tribal talismans and amulets were transferred to clothes, first with paints, later with threads. That is, the history of the appearance of seams goes back to the deepest antiquity. It is older than the origin of linen and the art of skinning. It is all the more touching that the stitching of clothes (the “goat” seam in particular) has survived to this day, is gaining popularity, and is becoming extremely popular.

Russian character seam "goat"

It is documented that the first embroidery originated in China. Maybe,I mean embroidery on silk, but on coarse canvases and on leather, it may very well be that the priority belongs to the north of Russia.

Gradually, all the clothes of our ancestors began to be finished using this type of needlework - both male and female. Embroidery becomes artistic. But even complex, beautiful, multifaceted patterns are also associated with idolatry. With the advent of Christianity, a cross appears in embroidery, and the “goat” seam takes on a new life. It is very similar to a cross with stitches crossing not in the center, but closer to the edges. The small crossed ends of the stitch resemble horns. Perhaps that is why it is called so affectionately.

Multipurpose goat stitch

Of the entire group of the simplest seams: “forward needle”, chain, looped, stalk - the “goat” seam is the most popular and multifunctional. Such an important section of tailoring as hemming of hems and sleeves of women's clothing is impossible without it, especially on thin fabrics. Even with a large number of adhesive or double-sided adhesive hemming tapes, trousers should be hemmed with a goat. It is more beautiful, more practical, and more durable.

Despite its primitiveness, the “goat” seam can be subjected to a large number of metamorphoses. You can optionally vary the length of the stitch and its endings, each time a new pattern will be obtained. You can reduce the step of the pattern, and leave the stitch long. You can generally connect the ends of the stitches. It turns out a completely different picture. And you can make a “goat” double and triple, with contrasting threads or threads of the same color of differenttones. This "goat" will be called velvet, and in the case of multi-colored threads, "Scotch", as it is very similar to the colors of the kilt - the national Scottish men's skirt. This seam, along with the herringbone, is also referred to as contour seams. These are neat raised seams. To obtain spectacular embroidery, it is recommended to first draw two parallel lines on the canvas, the distance between which is equal to the stitch size in the “goat seam” line. The activity numbering chart can also be a great help.

Embroidery technique with this stitch

In any kind of needlework, certain skills are required. So, the goat seam - how to sew in this way? When hemming, the tucked-in part of the bottom of the skirt is attached to the fabric as fashionably more often, performing the function of overcasting, but there should not be any trace of thread on the front of the product. That is, one must be able to capture not only the thread, but even part of it, especially if the fabric is thin. The very process of embroidery or hemming occurs as follows: the needle “looks” from right to left, but moves in the opposite direction. All upper stitches, like the lower ones, are ideally made at the level of one weft thread (above - its own, below - its own), in order to ensure the standard and clarity of the pattern. The number of longitudinal threads picked up must also be strictly the same, both at the bottom and at the top. On the front of the product, a pattern is obtained, and on the inside, the same rows of parallel columns are obtained (only when embroidering). The whole process says that the goat seam is done by hand, and only by hand.

Role"goat" in hemstitch

In needlework, especially when it comes to hemstitching, there is such a division: seams on fabric and seams in fabric. The latter are obtained by pulling out several adjacent longitudinal threads, if necessary, then with further strict alternation. Having prepared the canvas or some part of it in this way, they proceed to further artistic processing of the product. And here the “goat” finish is very appropriate, especially if the thread is of a contrasting color, the edges of the resulting thinned seam in the fabric. If there are several of them, then one or two lines of “goats” can be put between them. Red on white is very impressive. And if you combine several types of hemstitching and contour seams, you get an exclusive for a store selling handicrafts. The hemstitch, made with plain threads, trimmed with “goat” embroidery, was used to decorate wedding dresses. To perform complex patterns in which the “goat” seam is involved, the scheme is simply necessary.