Building a pattern for a women's jacket

2024 Author: Sierra Becker | [email protected]. Last modified: 2024-02-26 03:46

Sewing is really easy, even things like a jacket. Of course, looking at the scale of the work, it seems impossible to deal with pockets, zippers and decorative stitching without professional skills. But if we consider the process in stages and disassemble each sewing unit separately, in practice it turns out that it is quite easy to make even a women's winter jacket on your own. The pattern is built in just 20 minutes.

Preparation

Absolutely all things are built on the base grid. This means that the pattern of the jacket, including women's, is based on a prepared drawing, which takes into account individual measurements. Therefore, they begin by measuring the figure. For a pattern of a women's jacket, the following measurements will be required:

• chest, waist, hips, forearms and wrists;
• back and shoulder width;
• height from shoulder to center of bust, from shoulder to waist;
• sleeve length, product length;
• distance between the peaks of the chest or,as it is called, a solution of darts.

It is best to use construction film to make a template. This material is stronger than paper, easy to draw on with a permanent marker, and you can store a women's jacket pattern for a very long time without fear that it will tear.

Basic grid

The drawing starts with building a right angle:

• from the starting point to the right lay a line half the length of the chest circumference;
• draw a straight line down in accordance with the length of the product, forming a right angle with the drawn horizontal line;
• top of the corner - a place for the neck of the back of the women's jacket pattern;
• vertically from top to bottom mark the level of the chest and waist, which are found in accordance with the measurements of "bust height", "height from shoulder to waist";
• 20 cm below the waist mark the border of the hip line;
• contours are drawn from the found points parallel to the top horizontal of the drawing;
• close the corner, forming a rectangle;
• from the left horizontal along the line of the chest put a point at a distance of half the width of the back;
• on the opposite side, mark a point, this is half the solution of tucks;
• from the point "half the width of the back" recede an amount equal to ¼ half of the chest girth +3cm;
• from the found points raise perpendiculars;
• straight lines divided the drawing into three zones: back, armhole, shelf;
• the armhole is divided in half on the line of the chest and the perpendicular is lowered, outlining the side cut.

Basic grid pattern for womenthe jacket is ready, it remains to determine the main lines of the details, according to which it will be possible to model the shaped lines.

Pattern details

Pattern detailing is the finish line. Here you will need to carefully place all the dots and connect them with lines:

• receive 7 cm from the upper corners, put points, raising them by 1.5 cm for the back and 1 cm for the front;
• from the points draw the neckline with a smooth line, deepening it by 3 cm for the back and 7 cm for the front;
• from the extreme points of the neck, the length of the shoulder is laid off at an angle relative to the upper border of the rectangle, depending on the slope of the shoulder (for sloping - 3 cm, for normal - 2.5 cm, for straight lines - 1.5 cm);
• on the back 4 cm recede from the shoulder, put a point and lower the perpendicular to the line of the chest;
• another 1.6 cm recede from the point along the shoulder line and at a height of 6 cm along the previously drawn perpendicular, the tuck of the back is closed;
• front shoulder line is always located 2 cm lower and at a distance of 1/10 of the half-girth of the chest from the base line along the border of the armhole and front;
• from the found point to the beginning of the neck, a straight line is drawn, which will be longer than the desired size on the shoulder;
• the extra length is closed into the chest tuck, namely, along the line of the shoulder of the front shelf from the perpendicular raised from the point "half the solution of the tuck", retreat to the difference that should be closed, put a point and close the tuck with a straight line on the line of the chest at the point the beginning of the perpendicular “half of the solution of the tuck”;
• edgedarts, which is closer to the armhole, raise by 1 cm;
• the armhole is drawn in a smooth line from the edges of the shoulder sections to 1/3 of the height of the border lines and to the midpoint on the chest area;
• along the line of the hips on both sides of the rectangle, retreat ½ measurements of the girth of the hips, put points and draw straight lines to the middle of the armhole zone;
• if necessary, on the waist line, 3 cm recede from the border of the side cut to form a fitted silhouette of the jacket.

This construction option is suitable for both a warm product and a pattern for a women's leather jacket or windbreaker.

Sleeve measurements

It is always difficult for beginners to build a sleeve. There are many ways to build, but the easiest way to make a template based on four measurements:

• armhole length according to the finished pattern;
• sleeve length;
• forearm girth;
• wrist girth.

Building a template

Even if this is a pattern of a women's jacket on a padding polyester, the sleeve can always be built according to these measurements. The only thing you will need to add to the girths is an allowance for the thickness of the insulation and a loose fit.

Construction is done as follows:

• draw a straight line corresponding to the length of the sleeve;
• from the extreme point from top to bottom recede 1/3 of the length of the armhole, adding 2 cm;
• on both sides of this point at right angles retreat along half of the circumference of the forearm;
• from the bottom extreme point at a right angle to bothsides recede at half the girth of the wrist + 2 cm;
• the resulting lines close into a trapezoid;
• return to the top of the drawing and draw straight lines to design the sleeves, connecting the extreme points of the forearm girth with the upper point of the main straight line;
• drawing can be conditionally divided into two parts: a trapezoid and a triangle;
• the sides of the triangle are divided into 4 equal parts each and dotted;
• the first point to the left of the base is lowered by 2 cm, the third is raised by 1.5 cm;
• the first point to the right of the base is lowered by 1 cm, the third is raised by 1.5 cm;
• the points are connected by a smooth line from the corners at the base through the top of the triangle.

Building the hood

In order to build a pattern for a women's jacket with a hood, you need to measure additional parameters such as:

• head circumference;
• head height;
• back neck length;
• front neck length.

Constructions are made as follows:

• draw a horizontal line equal to 1/3 of the circumference of the head +4–9 cm;
• from the extreme points descend at a right angle to the height of the head +3-5 cm;
• lines close into a rectangle;
• retreat half of the neck of the back along the bottom edge, mark the border, retreat 3 cm of the tuck, mark its border and mark half of the neck of the front;
• from the lower left corner of the rectangle rise by 4 cm;
• draw a line from the received point to the base to the half-neck markfront;
• in the center of the tuck zone draw a perpendicular to a height of 3 cm and mark the borders of the tuck;
• from the upper right corner to the point "half of the front neckline" a straight line is lowered;
• the upper corner of the left corner is beveled and the template is closed with a straight line.

The pattern of a women's jacket with a hood is ready. It remains to cut the parts with seam allowances and assemble the parts. It is worth noting that allowances for the girth and height of the head are made based on the style and amount of insulation in the hood.