Building a drawing of a straight skirt: taking measurements, cutting order

2024 Author: Sierra Becker | [email protected]. Last modified: 2024-02-26 03:45

It's not for nothing that beginners in sewing start their journey with aprons and straight-cut skirts. Building drawings is not as easy as it seems, therefore, the easiest way to start learning is to build a drawing of a straight skirt. Having once built a pattern according to your figure, you can use it for several years to model products for yourself if the figure has not changed in size.

If there is a desire, there is no need to be afraid

If you want to learn how to sew, then all fears and worries should be put aside. If you study and make efforts, then it is simply impossible that there would be no result. Building the basic drawing of a straight skirt does not require special knowledge and skills, just follow the instructions. If you understand this topic once and understand the principle of operation, then in the future you will no longer need to resort to schemes. It will be enough to have measurements, a ruler and a piece of crayon.

It all starts with measurements

Measurements must be taken correctly, the course of further work depends on this, not only the construction of a straight line drawingskirts, but also the fit. Also, having a basic drawing, it can be used to model a bell skirt, year, pencil skirt, evening models with flounces and other options.

To work, you need to have three basic measurements: waist circumference, hip circumference and the length of the desired skirt. These are the main data, with their help the calculation will be carried out and additional figures will be obtained, which will be useful for calculating undercuts.

Because the ideal figure is rare, taking measurements is not always easy. On a full figure, the waistline can not always be determined visually. Some people wear trousers and skirts below the waist because they are comfortable. Therefore, you need to tie a thread or belt around the waist and ask the person to correct it in a way that suits him. The waist should be measured along this line. The received data can be written in a notepad.

The circumference of the hips is measured at the most convex parts, placing the centimeter tape horizontally. It should pass through the convex parts of the buttocks, thighs and abdomen.

The length of the product is the desired length of the skirt. It is measured vertically from the waist. Measurements for building a drawing of a straight skirt should always be in front of your eyes to check with them. For work, only half the value of the measurement is used. In the literature, you can find such designations for the half-circumference of the waist - POT or ST. This is the same! Accordingly, the semicircumference of the hips is POB or SB. Measure - the length of the product in the drawing is designated DI.

If it is difficult to understand the drawing

Algorithm for constructing a drawingdesigns of a straight skirt can be described very simply, but can be complicated by formulas and a large number of symbols. All these notes will not confuse an experienced person, because he understands their meaning. But for someone who has not sewed before, they will become a real trap in that you don’t even want to figure out what’s what.

If some description seems very complicated and incomprehensible, then you should just find a couple more descriptions and check, maybe another author has found simpler words in order to explain how it is easier to draw a drawing of a straight skirt.

Working with the grid

In order not to make the description very complicated, this article will use the most basic notation and data, which will be enough to build a grid drawing of a straight skirt. For example, approximate numerical values corresponding to the figure will be offered. They will need to be replaced with your measurements.

• FROM=70 cm, so Sweat (ST)=35 cm.
• OB=100 cm, so Sweat (ST)=50 cm.
• Product length (CI)=60 cm.

When the measurements for building the basic drawing of a straight skirt are collected, you can start drawing. It can be performed on a special tracing paper or take a large drawing paper, or wallpaper. The drawing can be done with a pencil or pen. For work it is convenient to use a ruler of at least 50 cm.

First point - getting started

From the upper left edge, step back 4-5 cm. Draw a horizontal and vertical line from the point to make an angle of 90 °. Top sign T. T.

From this point, go down 60 cm (skirt length), putt. N and draw a horizontal line to the right - this is the bottom line.

From t. T down 18-20 cm and put t. B, from it vertically to the right side draw a line of hips. If the pattern is built on a woman of short stature, then you can stop at 18 cm, if you are tall, then you can go down 20 cm.

To outline the width of the mesh, it is necessary to set aside the measurement of POT + 2-4 cm from T. T to the right. These few centimeters are added to the freedom of fitting. If the fabric is thin, 2 cm is enough, if it is thick and warm, then you can add up to 4 cm.

50+2=52, so we postpone the measurement of 52 cm. We put p. T1 and draw a vertical line down from it to the intersection with the bottom and set p. H1. It turns out a rectangle. At the intersection with LB put t. B1.

Determining the sideline

To make it clear, it is worth mentioning that this mesh is only half of the skirt: half of the front and half of the back shelf. The line t. T and t. N is the middle of the front (front shelf), and the line t. T1 and t. H1 is the middle of the back half. To separate them from each other, you need to build a side line, it will be in the center. Measure POB with allowances for this is divided by 2.

52:2=26 cm, it is this value that needs to be set aside from p. T to the right, put p. T2 and draw a straight line down from it, at the intersections with horizontal lines, respectively, put p. B2 and p. H2.

Go to undercuts

Half of the work is already done. The turn came to the construction of darts on the drawing of a straight skirt. The sum of all darts is equal to the differencebetween waist and hips. So POB-POT=50-35=15 cm. So, on our grid we need to build undercuts into which 15 cm of fabric will go.

Half of this value will be removed in the side seams 15:2=7.5 cm. ruler straight lines. To avoid sharp corners, make a smooth rounding on the hips.

The amount of the front undercut must be calculated using the formula where the total amount of the undercut is divided by 6, so 15:6=2.5 is the depth of the front undercut.

To calculate the depth of the back groove, you need to divide the entire amount of the groove by 3, i.e. 15:3=5 cm.

To check yourself, you need to add up the sum of all undercuts and get the original 15 cm.

7.5+2.5+5=15, so we see that the calculation is correct.

Building a front and back undercut

In order not to get confused in complex formulas, we take the simplest version of the construction. Set aside 10 cm from point T to the right and put point T3, from it to the left and right set aside 1.25 cm each (2.5 cm depth of the front recess) and put point B2 and B3.

From t.t3 down, set aside 7 cm - the length of the front undercut and put t. G. Connect t. T3 with t. G and t. B3.

Go to the back half of the skirt

Segment B1T1 must be divided into 2 and put p. T4, put 14 cm down from it and put p. G1, and set aside 2.5 cm to the sides (5 cm depth of the back groove) and put p. B4 and B5. Connect t. B4 with t. G1 and t. B5, we get a back undercut.

Finishing details

Tothe product sat perfectly on the figure, and it was convenient to sew, it is worth working out some details. The end of the front and back grooves must be raised by 5 cm, and the side ones by 1 cm. The ends must be smoothly connected to the waist line. This calculation of undercuts is universal, but if the figure is non-standard, then they need to adjust the pattern so that the product fits perfectly on a specific figure.

The construction of the straight skirt pattern drawing is over, now the pattern can be cut out, transferred to the fabric and sewn. If you want to make a skirt with a narrowed bottom, then at this stage you can correct the drawing and set aside 3-5 cm from point H2 to the right and left and connect the resulting points with point B2. So, after sewing, the skirt will be with a narrowed silhouette. If you have additional questions, you can use the instruction cards for building a drawing of a straight skirt. Each master works according to the algorithm that is more convenient for him and, accordingly, paints the progress of work.

Cutting order

This pattern is basic, on its basis you can model different styles. In building a drawing of a straight skirt, the main thing is straight, clear lines. Regardless of build, the straight silhouette and clean lines add definition to the look.

Before cutting, the fabric must be prepared. It needs to be sprinkled with water and ironed well through a cloth. Before cutting, the fabric should “sit down” as much as possible so that this does not happen after the product issewn or after the first wash. The degree of shrinkage for each fabric is different, therefore, when buying material, you should always take it with a margin. Sometimes after steaming with 150 cm, 140 cm may remain. This must be taken into account.

There are several layout options for a skirt cut, depending on the model. It takes into account: whether there will be cuts, slots, whether there will be a seam at the back in the center or only on the sides. Where will the zipper be: front or back? If in front, then there will be a seam in the center of the front shelf, and the layout needs to be done a little differently.

The easiest option

In a skirt, the design of the slots and the processing of the codpiece can be difficult if the zipper is done in front. For the first time, you can do without these elements and make cuts on the sides and insert a zipper into the side seam.

In this option, solid shelves will be cut out, and there will be two parts in the work: the front and back shelves. For cutting, the fabric must be folded in such a way that the center of the front and the center of the back shelf fall on the fold of the fabric; when cutting, it must be left for allowances of 1-1.5 cm on the sides and top. It is better to leave a little more fabric so that if necessary there is something to increase the size. From the bottom, you need to leave 5 cm for the hem.

The belt is cut from a single piece of fabric. And usually below the skirt pattern. If there is no place to lay out a one-piece belt, then it is sewn from several parts. In some cases, it is laid out on the side, if the width of the fabric allows. The length of the belt is calculated as follows: FROM + 10 cm. An additional 10 cm will go to the seams and fastener (button and buttonhole). Belt width 10cmwill be folded in half, and 2 cm will be spent on sewing the belt to the skirt.

All patterns are outlined with a special crayon, you can separately outline the outline along which you will need to cut the workpiece. Undercuts are cut out only on a paper pattern, they are redrawn on the fabric, but not cut out.

When the parts are cut out, the drawn marks are only on one half, to transfer them to the other side, you need to fold them in half, the coated side inward, and tap lightly. There will be an imprint on the second side, it can be moved to make it clearer. This option is fast.

There is another option for transferring marks: the part is folded in half, the bait remains on top, and you need to flash it with air loops, without tightening the thread too much. So the undercuts and the entire basting are stitched, then the fabric is pulled so that the main part of the threads remains between the layers of the fabric, and cut along these threads. So the marking will remain around the entire perimeter of the part and in the places of grooves. Transferring the drawing to the fabric will be as clear as possible. It is enough for experienced craftsmen to translate only undercuts, and they can control the width of the allowances visually.

Also, when laying out on the fabric, you need to make sure that the direction of the pattern and the pile is the same. If there are defects on the fabric, they must be bypassed when cutting. When transferring the pattern to the fabric, all basting is done on the wrong side.

As for the cut of the belt, you can immediately draw it onfabric without cutting anything. If the skirt model is without a belt, then you need to choose the option for processing the waistline. In this case, you can make an undercut belt, cut it out separately and then transfer it to the fabric.