Table of contents:
- Conical skirt - what is it andwhat to wear it with?
- Materials and tools
- Measuring
- Constructing a drawing of a conical skirt
- Preparing fabric
- Open your skirts
- Sewing skirts
- Sew a belt to the skirt
2024 Author: Sierra Becker | [email protected]. Last modified: 2024-02-26 03:45
Recently, the saying "Everything new is a well-forgotten old" is becoming more and more relevant in fashion. Designers are increasingly displaying clothes that were popular in the 70s, 80s and 90s of the last century, complementing them with a combination of new trends. Therefore, now women of fashion can afford to show their imagination as much as possible. An unusual combination of fabrics and styles, the most daring combinations of different details of clothing - all this will look appropriate on the streets of a modern city. Things of your own design will look especially advantageous, in a bow, even if partially sewn by you, you will definitely not get lost in the crowd.
To help even the most inexperienced seamstresses turn their dreams and ideas into reality, we will try to describe as clearly as possible how to build a pattern, measure the figure, cut and sew the wardrobe detail you have planned. In this article you will find a detailed tutorial on how to create a conical skirt.
Conical skirt - what is it andwhat to wear it with?
So, let's look at all the pros and cons of this type of clothing. Any skirt that has the shape of a truncated cone can be called conical, that is, its pattern is part or a whole circle. This shape suggests some flare, which perfectly hides flaws and emphasizes the dignity of the figure. Conical skirts are divided into three main types:
- First, of course, we will mention everyone's favorite sun skirt. The cut, but not sewn, "sun" is in the shape of a circle with a hole for the waist or hips in the middle. This cut makes the skirt extraordinarily fluffy. This model is suitable for the fair sex, with absolutely any figure, you just need to choose the right material and decide on the length.
- Another model is a semi-solar skirt. As you may have guessed, in the "disassembled" form, the model is a half circle with a hole. This style will also suit ladies with any figure.
- The bell skirt is the third option. It is a thing of two quarters of a circle sewn together. This skirt is often sewn from dense fabric. This cut has less volume, which makes the hips more rounded. So this style will not always look appropriate on the owners of magnificent forms.
Both maxi and mini will look great on sophisticated thin girls. However, designers offer those who have size M or S to pay attention to minis made of dense fabrics, which will add extra volume to the hips and fluffiness of the skirt. Combine a skirt that is above the knee by a palm and a half, with tops, a blouse withpeplums, sweaters, menswear shirts and bustier tops.
For puffies fit maxi or midi, reaching at least to the middle of the knee. Pair it with a wrap blouse, a masculine-style shirt, or a slightly looser top, accentuating the waist with a belt or skirt belt.
Materials and tools
To create this model you will need:
- Paper on which you will build a pattern of a conical skirt (for example, graph paper). If you are not new to sewing, then you can make a drawing directly on the fabric, but for inexperienced craftswomen it will be more reliable to circle the diagram made on the draft.
- Pencil for sketching on paper.
- Chalk for transferring the product pattern to the fabric.
- Sharp cutting scissors (tailor's are best).
- Tailor's pins for fixing the paper pattern on the fabric.
- Actual fabric.
- Threads for basting a color contrasting with the fabric.
- Threads in the color of the fabric for white sewing.
- Sewing machine.
- Zipper, buttons (if required by the model).
- Decorative items (optional).
Measuring
To begin constructing the tapered skirt, you will need to take the following measurements:
St - half of the waist circumference
The thinnest part of the torso is measured, and then divided in half.
Di - the length of the product (in this case, the skirt)
Measured from the waist or hips (depending on whichthere will be a skirt landing, to the place where the product will end).
- Sat - half hips.
Measured at the most protruding point of the hips, the result is halved.
Dtb - length from waist to hips (in case your hips are below standard)
The distance is measured from the thinnest part of the torso to the most protruding point of the waist (strictly perpendicular to the floor).
- Fri - increase to half the waist circumference.
- Pb - increase to half the circumference of the hips.
Constructing a drawing of a conical skirt
In order not to spoil the fabric, we suggest building a pattern on paper, and after you make sure that the constructions are correct, you can transfer the result to the material from which you plan to sew. An example of building a drawing would be a semi-sun conical skirt.
- First of all, draw a horizontal line at the top of your paper.
- Find the midpoint of the line you have drawn, put a point there, mark it with the letter A and draw a perpendicular of arbitrary length down from it.
- Now let's find the waist on your skirt, for this, set aside from point A on both sides and down the distance that you get after calculating the following formula: St: 4 + 2. Label the resulting points with letters L, B, bottom - T.
- Connect these dots in a semicircle.
- From points L, B (to the sides) and points T (down) lay a distance equal to Di, mark the resulting points as N, C, lower - G.
- Connect them in a semicircle.
Modeling of the semi-solar conical skirt is completed. By the way, if you want to get a sun skirt, you can use this pattern, for this, when cutting, fold the fabric in half, attach the pattern with a straight part to the fold and draw it on the fabric. Cut out both layers of fabric according to the pattern and straighten the resulting part, the pattern of the conical sun skirt is in front of you.
Preparing fabric
So that the product does not lose its original appearance after the first wash, some manipulations must be performed with the fabric before use.
- First of all, cut a small piece from the fabric and soak it in a white saucer in boiling water for half an hour. See if the water is discolored. This is to check if the material is shedding.
- Soak the entire fabric in hot or cool water for 2-4 hours. If you are sewing from a dense fabric, then spread it on a flat surface, moisten it with a spray bottle. This way you can avoid shrinkage when washing the finished tapered skirt.
- Dry the fabric by laying it gently upright. This prevents the material from stretching.
- Iron the fabric through cheesecloth or a special piece of thin cotton fabric.
All of the above must be completed before you draw the tapered skirt.
Open your skirts
- Cut out the diagram you drew earlier along the lines N, G, C and N, L, T, B, C.
- Transfer pattern to fabric.
- Step back from the drawn lines by 1 centimeter (seam allowance) and cutthe resulting drawing.
Sewing skirts
To begin with, we advise you to make a belt. For a 5 cm wide belt, you will need a strip of fabric of the same color as the skirt, 12 cm wide and st x 2 + 5 cm long.
- From the wrong side, glue the entire strip of fabric that you cut for the belt with adhesive tape.
- Sew along the length of the waistband using an overlock stitch or a zigzag stitch on the inside.
- On the sides of the edge of the belt must be stitched, laying on the allowance of 1 centimeter from its initial length.
The belt is ready, now you can proceed directly to the sewing of the tapered skirt.
- From the semi-circle that marks the waist on the pattern, glue an adhesive tape the size of your zipper on both sides + 2 cm each.
- Together, after finishing the edges, sew from bottom to top the sides that connect the semicircle of the waist and the semicircle of the bottom, not reaching the waist line as many centimeters as your zipper.
- Now you can sew in a hidden zipper.
- Iron the resulting back seam.
- Fold the bottom with an equal amount of fabric on all sides and process the bottom with an overlocker, machine or manually.
Sew a belt to the skirt
- Set aside 3 cm from the edge of the belt and find the middle of the remaining length.
- Apply the middle of the waistband to the middle of the skirt.
- Sew a belt with a skirt by folding themright sides.
- On the left three centimeters of the belt we make a loop equal to the diameter of the button + 2 millimeters.
- Sew a button on the right side.
So our master class on sewing a conical skirt came to an end.
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