Introducing you to build a base pattern - the most understandable way. Let's start with the basis of a dress, blouse or jacket - that is, a shoulder item.
Let's take measurements (we have an example of individual measurements for size 48 of a non-standard figure), see:
- SG- 49;
- CT - 41;
- SAT - 55;
- ШС - 21;
- US - 17;
- SHG1 - 21;
- SHG2 - 25;
- VG - 28;
- WB - 19;
- CG - 10;
- accident - 43;
- DTS - 40;
- VPK - 42;
- SHK (nipple to shoulder) - 25;
- SHP - 14;
- ShPsp(shoulder width along the back from the cervical vertebra) - 23;
- SHPp(shoulder width in front from the jugular cavity) - 20;
- CI (from the waist) front 48 (better than 50);
- OP - 31;
- DR - 60;
- OZ - 21;
- DR 3\4 - 45.
Start building the base pattern - the most understandable way
AA6 up equals SG2 + PG
ATdown=accident. TN down - CI. TB down=WB. ATdown=VGR
AA11right and YY2right=SH2
AA1 Right=SSH\3 + Appr.=
Shpp –Shsp=1, 5
If the difference between Shpp and Shsp is more than 1 cm, then A10A8 to the left is equal to SSh/3+Pr=AA1 + difference between Shpp and Shsp. If the difference between Shpp and Shsp is greater towards the front, then in this case AA1=A10A8 + difference.
AA2=8 const (from 6 to 10)
A2A1 - connect with a smooth concave line.
When making the neckline and sprout, the line should start from a right angle.
A10A9 down 3cm const
A8A9 - connect with a smooth concave line
А1А4 to the right is equal in radius=ШП.ГГ1 to the right=CG (1\2 from the original)
Г1А4 radius=VGK before crossing with ГГ1.
At the intersection of line G1 with DA4 we get point A3.
A3A5 - tuck solution=(SHG2 -SHG1)2=
A3A5 - first radius=tuck solution
G1A3 - equal to the second radius - postpone
A5A6 is equal to A3A4 (part of the shoulder that has gone into the tuck)
T10T11 left - 2.5 cm
Find two radii:
Т5Г9up – barrel height
Find the bottom of the armhole.
G9G8 down - max up to 5 cm (otherwise, if we sweep up the sleeve, we will not be able to raise our hand, the dress will climb up behind the sleeve).
Draw the armhole in front with a smooth curved line through the points A6 G8 and A7G8.
Building a pattern of the base - the most understandable way is landingon the figure
Calculation of waist darts
SG2 +Pg – (ST+Fri)=
Left T10T11 - minus 2.5 cm
T11 T9 left=minimum 6cm
Т9Т8 to the left is equal to 3 cm. We divide it in half, we get the point Т7. Draw a perpendicular up and down.
B6B7 up – 3 cm const
А8Г10 divided by 3, we get Г5
Connect G5T8B7 and G5T9B7
B9B8 left 1cm
Connect A9G7 with a smooth convex line, dividing the distance by 3
Т5Т4 to the left=remainder OT
Measure BB8 and compare with SB. CONTROL!
If the difference between them is in the direction of the hips, then we can narrow the hips, and the dress will not stretch
If you need to add on the thigh, then from B5 we expand the hips by the required number of centimeters
2) T1T3 right 1cm
3) BB2 right 5 to 7 cm
Building a pattern of the base - the most understandable way - a single-seam sleeve
OP down - measure the distance by connecting A12A14.Connect and divide by 2. It turns out point A15
Lower the perpendicular down to the bottom line of the armhole in the area of the G6 point. We get the point G10. We measure the distance А15Г10
Formula A15G10 - (2, 5 - up to 3 cm)
OR down=А15Г10 -3
PP2down=", 5cm const
PP3 up=2.5cm const
Expand the sleeve width
O3O4 to the left is 1 cm const
O3O5 right=1cm const
We connect O4P2 and on the line the sleeve width point P5
Connect O4P2R5 and O5P3R6. We make out the line of the sleeves through the points O2P2R3 smoothly. O2P34
H1H2 right – 12.5 cm (SHNR:2)
Н1Н3 left – 12, 5
Connect P3H2 P4H3.
Your attention is presented with a step-by-step construction of a pattern for the basis of a dress. Even if everything looks scary at first glance, it's worth a try, and you will succeed.
After studying this point of building patterns, you can proceed to the next step - to master the construction of a pattern for the base of trousers.